click to enlarge Fresh flavors for a frigid forecast
PHOTO BY ASHLEY MEYER
Carrot salad

Did everyone have a great December? I certainly did. It was quite a run of eating and drinking and I have no regrets. Unfortunately, my once roomy jeans are no longer roomy and the ache in my joints is a reminder that there are consequences to my gluttony. As lovely as all those cookies were, I'm craving bright, fresh flavors that make me feel good inside and out, especially during the dark days of winter that lie ahead.

These recipes have been in frequent rotation at my house lately, making good use of seasonal winter produce and pantry-friendly staples. All are dishes that can be made for dinner and the leftovers enjoyed for lunch throughout the week. Winter staples like cauliflower, root vegetables, apples and nuts are the focus, livened and brightened by bright vinaigrettes, herby chermoula sauce and fiery red chili flakes. While they are lovely as side dishes, these plant-forward preparations have enough substance and balanced nutrition to make a meal all on their own.

Roasted cauliflower with chermoula and almonds
Chermoula is a zesty fresh herb sauce of Moroccan origin, often served with fish.

1 head cauliflower
8 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 can chickpeas or white beans, drained and rinsed (optional for extra protein)
Salt, pepper and red chili flakes, to taste
4 garlic cloves
1 teaspoon each ground cumin, coriander and paprika
1 bunch each parsley and cilantro, washed and roughly chopped
Zest and juice of one lemon
2-3 cups cooked quinoa or millet
1/3 cup toasted almond

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Wash the cauliflower and cut it into one-inch florets. Toss with two tablespoons olive oil, beans, a generous pinch of salt and black/red pepper to taste, then spread into a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until the cauliflower is lightly charred and just tender.

While the cauliflower is roasting, make the chermoula. Place the garlic and a pinch of salt in the bowl of a food processor and mince finely. Add the spices, chopped herbs, lemon zest and juices then replace the lid. With the machine running, pour in the remaining six tablespoons of olive oil and process until smooth. Taste for seasoning. Add a pinch of sugar if necessary to balance the acidity.

Serve the roasted cauliflower over the cooked grains, drizzled with chermoula and a scattering of toasted almonds.

Carrot and arugula salad

½ red onion, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon each salt and sugar
1 pound carrots, peeled and grated
cup dried cranberries
3-4 tablespoons maple Dijon dressing (recipe below)
4 oz baby arugula or spinach
½ cup crumbled feta
½ cup roughly chopped roasted pistachios, pumpkin seeds or pecans

Toss the sliced onion with the salt and sugar in a small bowl and set aside for 15 minutes, then rinse them well with cool water, drain and roll them up in a paper towel.

Combine the rinsed and dried onions, grated carrots, cranberries and 3 tablespoons of the dressing and mix well. At this point the salad can be refrigerated for up to three days. Mix in the arugula, feta and nuts just before serving, tossing with additional dressing as needed. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Maple Dijon dressing

2 tablespoons each lemon juice and cider vinegar
3 tablespoons maple syrup
1 tablespoon whole-grain Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon minced shallot
½ cup avocado oil, or other neutral oil
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine the lemon juice and vinegar, syrup, mustard and shallot in a small bowl or jar along with 1 tablespoon of water. Slowly drizzle in the oils while whisking vigorously. Adjust for seasoning as needed. This makes more than you need for the carrot salad – leftover dressing keeps well in the fridge a couple weeks.

Not your mama's apple salad

This lightened up spin on a classic Waldorf salad is perfect alongside a pork chop or with a bowl of creamy root vegetable potage.

1 teaspoon each salt and lemon juice
3 crisp-tart type apples, such as pink lady
4 stalks celery
1 cup grapes
2 tablespoons minced parsley
½ cup toasted walnuts or pecans
3-4 tablespoons All Purpose Vinaigrette

Combine the salt and lemon juice in a medium bowl and stir to dissolve. Core and thinly slice the apples. Soak the apple slices in the salt solution for 10 minutes, then drain, rinse and pat dry with a tea towel. This prevents the apples from browning and will keep them fresh for several days.

Slice the celery on the diagonal into 1/4 -inch slices. Wash and halve the grapes. Toss with 2-3 tablespoons of vinaigrette. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then sprinkle with toasted nuts just before serving.

All-purpose vinaigrette

Follow the recipe for the maple Dijon vinaigrette, substituting honey for the maple syrup, smooth Dijon for the whole-grain mustard, and one clove minced garlic for the shallot.

Root vegetable potage

A potage is a rustic soup made from boiled and pureed vegetables. A dietary staple for centuries, this soup can be made with whatever root veggies you have on hand. This version just uses water to highlight the earthy flavor of the vegetables, but feel free to use bone broth to boost the protein content.

4 tablespoons olive oil or butter
1 large onion or 2 leeks, chopped
3 stalks celery, chopped
4 cloves garlic
3 rosemary branches
2 bay leaves
3 ½ pounds peeled and cubed root vegetables such as carrots, parsnips, turnips, rutabagas, sweet potatoes, celery root
8 cups water, vegetable or chicken stock
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon cider vinegar or lemon juice

Heat the olive oil or butter in a soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions and celery and sauté until softened and lightly browned, about five minutes. Add the garlic and cook two minutes more. Add the rosemary, bay leaves, root vegetables, water or broth and salt/pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until vegetables are tender, 30-40 minutes.

Remove the bay leaves and rosemary, then puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper as needed, then mix in the vinegar or lemon juice and serve.

Ashley Meyer

Ashley Meyer has been cooking as long as she has been walking. The daughter of beloved former Illinois Times food columnist, Julianne Glatz, Ashley offers a fresh, inspired take on her mother’s culinary legacy. Ashley studied winemaking at Lincoln University in Christchurch, New Zealand and recently achieved the...

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