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“Horiatiki,” commonly known in America as a Greek salad. Credit: Photo by Ann Shaffer Glatz

If you are finding yourself casting a wary eye toward bagged lettuce after the latest cyclospora health alert, consider looking to Greece for a lettuce-free salad alternative. The horiatiki salata, commonly known in America as a Greek salad, is a summer salad that requires no leafy greens whatsoever. It is a fresh, rustic salad made with chunky cuts of tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion, green peppers, Kalamata olives and a block of feta cheese, dressed simply with olive oil and dried oregano.

The horiatiki – meaning “village salad” – stands as a tribute to the elegance of simple cooking. Well before securing its position as a staple across traditional Greek tavernas and Greek-American diners, this rustic creation was believed to have grown out of the practical dining traditions of rural laborers throughout sunny Greece.

Imagine an olive grove during the midday heat. Seasoned field laborers, their hands hardened by hours under the intense sun, seek comfort beneath the branches of an old tree. They retrieve a dense block of tangy, brined feta carried from home in a cloth sack. Using pocket knives, they slice ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and onions into a shared wooden bowl, letting the juices mingle with local olive oil, briny feta, and dried oregano. This story captures the true essence of the classic “village salad” – a simple midday tradition where fresh, local produce provided simple nourishment.

While this is a romantic origin story, its true history unfolds quite differently. Rather than emerging from the bucolic countryside, the modern horiatiki was actually created in the Plaka, Athens’ oldest and most historic neighborhood, situated at the foothills of the Acropolis, to cater to visitors during the nation’s initial tourism boom in the 1960s. At the time, tavern owners faced stringent government price controls on standard summer salad menu items consisting of basic vegetables like tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and peppers. To circumvent these restrictive regulations as tourism swelled, an innovative solution emerged: placing a slab of feta cheese on top. This clever modification legally transformed the dish’s classification into a luxury item, exempting it from fixed-pricing laws and empowering tavern owners to set their own rates as they pleased. Consequently, both the classic “village” name and the iconic block of feta were entirely fabricated marketing inventions designed to boost profitability.

Additionally, tomatoes – now an essential ingredient in the salad – were a relatively recent addition to Greek cuisine. Introduced to the Plaka district in 1818 by a Capuchin monk who imported them as ornamental plants, tomatoes were not embraced as a food source in Greece until the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Traditionally prepared during the summer months with seasonal vegetables, the classic horiatiki doesn’t contain any lettuce because lettuce primarily grows during the winter in Greece. Instead of using a lemon juice or vinegar dressing, it relies purely on a combination of olive oil and rich tomato juices. The feta remains whole rather than crumbled, and the olives are left unpitted. Wild dried oregano serves as an essential finishing element in traditional Greek cooking. Gathered by hand along rocky hillside slopes, it contains a rich concentration of natural essential oils. Unlike tender herbs such as basil or parsley, which lose their volatile aromatic compounds once dried, oregano retains its essential oils. Crushed between palms just before serving, it instantly elevates simple ingredients, blending local olive oil and tomato juices into a fragrant whole. Typically, horiatiki salata is accompanied by good crusty bread, which is perfect for soaking up the papara – the delicious pool of olive oil and tomato juices left at the bottom of the salad bowl.  

Horiatiki salata (Greek salad)

You should be able to easily source all the ingredients for this salad at Springfield’s Old Capitol Farmers Market, including Greek olive oil and Kalamata olives from the Spartan Valley Olive Oil stand and Prairie Fruits Farm and Creamery’s award-winning feta at Salt Fork Food Works Food Hub.

Serves 2

Ingredients:

2 large or 3 medium tomatoes

1 teaspoon salt-divided

1 medium cucumber, sliced into half-moons

½ medium green bell pepper, sliced into thin rings or strips

¼ medium red onion, thinly sliced 

10-12 whole unpitted Kalamata olives

1 thick slab feta cheese, not pre-crumbled

3-4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, best quality

1 teaspoon dried Greek oregano

Preparation:

Chop the ripe tomatoes into rustic, bite-sized pieces directly over the salad bowl to catch all of their fresh juices. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon of salt and set aside for 10 to 30 minutes; this draws out the juices, forming a rich tomato broth at the base of the bowl. Meanwhile, soak the sliced red onion in a bowl of ice water to preserve its crispness and soften its bite.

Combine the cucumber slices, red onion, green bell pepper and whole Kalamata olives in the bowl along with the chopped tomatoes.

Pour half of the extra virgin olive oil over the fresh vegetables. Gently toss everything with your hands or two wooden spoons so the tomato juices blend into the oil.

Place the slab of feta right on top of the salad mound. Drizzle the remaining olive oil over the block of feta and the salad. 

Rub the dried oregano between your hands directly over the dish to shower it with flavor, then finish with a final tiny pinch of salt.

Serve with crusty sourdough or pita bread to soak up the juices remaining at the bottom of the bowl.

Usually about four-five minutes until al dente.

After the passing of his wife, Julianne (former Illinois Times food columnist), Peter Glatz decided to retire from a 40-year career as a dentist to reinvent himself as a chef at the age of 66. In his short...

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