I do not enjoy picking green beans. Or rather, my back doesn’t like picking beans. However, I couldn’t imagine a summer spread without them, whether they’re slow cooked like my great-grandmother made them or blanched until just tender and tossed in a salad. My great-grandfather swore by Contender, a stringless heirloom bush variety that I […]
Food Features
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A short history of cooking on a stick
Roasting food on a skewer is a universal tradition with cultural significance dating back to the dawn of human culinary history. Nearly every culture has crafted its own version, from central Asian kebabs and Middle Eastern dishes to Greek souvlaki, Italian spiedini, Japanese yakitori and Southeast Asian satays, highlighting its deep-rooted importance worldwide. Long before […]
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Magical marinades
A well-made marinade makes all the difference when grilling and can transform an otherwise lackluster meal into a stellar spread. Marinades and dry rubs perform two main functions to achieve this, first by allowing salt to penetrate thoroughly and evenly, resulting in a juicy, well-seasoned dish. Second, the acids and enzymes in many marinades can […]
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Not your average turnip
Growing up in a home with a Teutonic heritage, I was exposed to turnips at a young age and developed a strong aversion to them. To my youthful senses, they smelled like skunk and tasted even worse. Finding them in a pot of corned beef and cabbage was enough to spoil the entire meal for […]
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Chilled soups
When the temperatures soar and even the weeds are wilting, chilled soups manage to exude effortless elegance despite their dead-simple preparation and often humble ingredient list. Many, such as cucumber soup and Spanish gazpacho, are essentially liquefied salad and don’t require any cooking at all. Others, such as classic French vichyssoise, a chilled potato and […]
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A Juneteenth convergence of cultures
Juneteenth marks June 19, 1865, when enslaved Texans finally learned of their freedom – two years after the Emancipation Proclamation. In 2021, President Joe Biden signed the Juneteenth National Independence Day Act, establishing the date as a federal holiday. Juneteenth has a red-themed culinary tradition, from crimson hibiscus tea to Sea Island red peas, which […]
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Canned goods for the summer
The height of the summer produce season may seem like an odd time to lean on canned and jarred ingredients, however this time of year I find myself reaching often for the can opener. From flaky tuna to creamy cannellini beans and punchy olives, these pantry staples are in constant rotation in my summer kitchen […]
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Getting sauced: The magic of romesco
I just picked up my first bunch of local asparagus at the farmers’ market. In anticipation of grilling outside, I made a batch of romesco sauce. A staple of Spanish cuisine, romesco sauce is a traditional condiment from Catalonia in the northeast. Although it is now famously associated with calçots – tender spring onions roasted […]
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Five simple salad dressings
We finally enjoyed our first homegrown salad this week. Normally we’d have been feasting on greens much sooner, but an unseasonably hard cold snap decimated our first plantings of lettuce a few weeks back and we had to replant. This cherished first salad was simply dressed with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, good olive […]
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Celebrating women with “kids”
This week’s column is dedicated to a deeply caring connection: women and their “kids” (a pun very much intended). The late 1970s marked a period of two parallel cultural movements in the U.S. This intensely creative era fundamentally changed the way America works and what America eats. While the personal computer was being invented in […]
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Pavlova is a beautiful, tasty dessert
Pavlova is a lofty, show-stopping dessert that’s at once beautiful, easy and economical. Essentially a giant baked meringue with a crusty exterior and a fluffy, marshmallow-like interior, pavlova is fervently beloved by both Australians and New Zealanders alike. The recipe’s history is a source of much dispute between the two nations which both claim it […]
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The verdant resurrection
The onset of spring brings with it a shift in what we do in restaurant kitchens. The season marks our departure from the heavy root vegetables of winter to fresh, vibrant produce. Following months of quiet dormancy, the emergence of foraged treasures like morel mushrooms and ramps, followed by locally grown asparagus, changes our menu […]
