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Asparagus scrap soup. Credit: Credit: Peter Glatz

The onset of spring brings with it a shift in what we do in restaurant kitchens. The season marks our departure from the heavy root vegetables of winter to fresh, vibrant produce. Following months of quiet dormancy, the emergence of foraged treasures like morel mushrooms and ramps, followed by locally grown asparagus, changes our menu planning from “What ingredients do we need for this recipe?” to “What recipe can we make from these ingredients?”

In a restaurant, the visual appeal of a dish is important. At Caprae Restaurant at Prairie Fruits Farm and Creamery in Champaign, our current spring menu features a halibut entrée that illustrates this point. For this dish, we plate broiled halibut atop asparagus spears. To ensure everything fits precisely within the plate’s well, we peel and trim our asparagus spears to a uniform, exact length. While this creates an appealing presentation, it results in a substantial amount of each stalk ending up in the compost bucket.

To me, throwing away the woody ends and fibrous peelings – which often make up nearly a third of an asparagus bunch – is a quiet tragedy. I strive to embrace a “no-waste philosophy,” and view these trimmings as a source of hidden flavor rather than trash, or at best, compost. Repurposing scraps into something both healthful and appetizing is at the heart of sustainable cooking. My co-workers chuckle as they watch me “dumpster-dive” into the compost to retrieve discarded trimmings. While the woody cores of asparagus are far too fibrous for direct consumption, they possess the same essential chlorophyll and sugars found in the delicate tips. The trick is to use techniques designed to extract that flavor while effectively improving the difficult, fibrous consistency.

As a fast-growing perennial, asparagus produces lignin at its base to support its maturing stalks. This results in the fibrous “woodiness” that is hard to chew. Yet, much like the inedible bones used to make a savory meat stock, these woody stalks are rich in minerals and flavorful aromatic compounds. And when you peel the stalks of larger asparagus, the peelings themselves are intensely flavorful, though their texture is also problematic.

When faced with a pile of rescued asparagus bottoms and peelings, I immediately visualize a soup – warm or cold, depending on the weather. The first step is to cut the asparagus bottoms into smaller pieces, discarding any that are hopelessly dried out. To intensify the flavor of these scraps, I like to trigger the Maillard reaction by roasting them, which converts complex carbohydrates into sugars. Roast until the bottoms develop brown spots, then add the peelings and roast a bit longer. To further enhance the flavor, I employ two traditionally Japanese components: miso, an umami-rich koji-fermented soybean paste, and dashi, a broth (also umami-rich) prepared from kombu (dried kelp) and katsuobushi (dried tuna). Dashi, though not particularly flavorful on its own, enhances the flavor of everything else.

When making a soup from trimmings, it’s important to maintain a gentle simmer to preserve delicate aromas and avoid bitterness. The liquid should never reach a harsh boil, which will extract off-flavors. Once the woody ends have released their flavor and nutrients, they need to be puréed and strained through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any indigestible fibers. The goal is a silky smooth, flavorful broth that honors the value of every scrap.

Sustainability in the kitchen is not just about ethics; it is about flavor. By reclaiming the “woody” parts of the asparagus, we honor the farmers’ hard work and the season’s natural cycle. As the days grow longer and the central Illinois landscape turns green, there is no better way to celebrate the arrival of spring than with a bowl of soup that is as resourceful as it is delicious.

Asparagus scrap soup

The weather in May can be hot, and for those warm days, I like to serve this asparagus soup chilled. To finish the dish, I recommend garnishing with blanched asparagus tips, chives or fresh herbs such as mint, basil, parsley or tarragon.

Ingredients:

1 lb asparagus woody ends and peelings, roughly chopped

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 medium shallots, finely diced

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon white miso

4 cups dashi, homemade or substitute vegetable stock (see note below)

½ cup crème fraîche or sour cream thinned with a splash of heavy cream

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste

Note:

Dashi will elevate this soup and is worth the extra effort. It is super easy to make, but Hondashi Instant Dashi isn’t a bad alternative. You can find instructions for making homemade dashi at https://www.illinoistimes.com/food-drink/stock-recommendation-16586733/

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

In a heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the diced shallots and sauté until translucent and tender, about 10 minutes. Add the sliced garlic and cook for a few minutes more but avoid burning.

Meanwhile, toss the woody asparagus ends and peelings in a bowl with a little olive oil, season with salt, and spread out on a parchment-lined sheet tray. Roast in the oven until they begin to brown.

Add the roasted asparagus to the pot with the shallots. Increase the heat slightly and sauté, stirring until everything is warmed through and fragrant.

Add the white miso paste and stir until well-combined. Pour in the dashi. Bring the mixture to a bare simmer – avoid a hard boil to maintain the vibrant green color and delicate aroma. Gently simmer for 20–25 minutes, until the woody ends are soft enough to pierce easily with a knife.

Allow the soup to cool slightly. Working in batches, transfer the mixture to a high-speed blender. Purée until as smooth as possible.

Pour the puréed soup through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean pot. Use the back of a ladle to push the liquid through, discarding the fibrous solids that remain in the strainer.

Return the strained soup to a gentle heat. Whisk in the crème fraîche and lemon zest and juice. Adjust the seasoning with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Ladle into warm bowls. Garnish with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and reserved asparagus tips or chives. Or serve cold, with a dollop of yogurt and fresh herbs.

TIP: Though roasting intensifies the flavor, it dulls the color. To brighten the color, dip a bunch of parsley into boiling water for 10 seconds, then plunge it into ice water. Add this to the blender before puréeing.  

After the passing of his wife, Julianne (former Illinois Times food columnist), Peter Glatz decided to retire from a 40-year career as a dentist to reinvent himself as a chef at the age of 66. In his short...

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