Posted inFood Features

A Juneteenth convergence of cultures

Juneteenth marks June 19, 1865, when enslaved Texans finally learned of their freedom  – two years after the Emancipation Proclamation. In 2021, President Joe Biden signed the Juneteenth National Independence Day Act, establishing the date as a federal holiday. Juneteenth has a red-themed culinary tradition, from crimson hibiscus tea to Sea Island red peas, which […]

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Getting sauced: The magic of romesco 

I just picked up my first bunch of local asparagus at the farmers’ market. In anticipation of grilling outside, I made a batch of romesco sauce. A staple of Spanish cuisine, romesco sauce is a traditional condiment from Catalonia in the northeast. Although it is now famously associated with calçots – tender spring onions roasted […]

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Celebrating women with “kids”

This week’s column is dedicated to a deeply caring connection: women and their “kids” (a pun very much intended). The late 1970s marked a period of two parallel cultural movements in the U.S. This intensely creative era fundamentally changed the way America works and what America eats. While the personal computer was being invented in […]

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The verdant resurrection

The onset of spring brings with it a shift in what we do in restaurant kitchens. The season marks our departure from the heavy root vegetables of winter to fresh, vibrant produce. Following months of quiet dormancy, the emergence of foraged treasures like morel mushrooms and ramps, followed by locally grown asparagus, changes our menu […]

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Ooey gooey goodness

Now in my third year at Champaign’s Prairie Fruits Farm and Creamery, I stay busy working at Caprae, our farm-to-table restaurant, and teaching culinary classes in our new education facility. Recently, I have also begun spending my Saturday mornings assisting at the Salt Fork Food Works Food Hub back home in Springfield. A few weeks […]

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The French Connection

One of the most rewarding aspects of travel is discovering local culinary traditions – those storied techniques and heritage dishes that I would love to weave into my own kitchen repertoire. Every trip is a research and development project. This past autumn, a winning bid at a school fundraiser bought us a week in a […]

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An ancient food preservation method for today

Confit and rillettes are two traditional methods of food preservation. Dating back to ancient civilizations, these methods originated as a preservation practice before the advent of refrigeration. They both involve slowly cooking meat in its own rendered fat. By submerging the food under a layer of fat, an anaerobic environment was created, effectively preventing spoilage […]

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How to make exceptional chicken stock

Freezers shouldn’t be packed more than 75-80% full to allow optimal airflow. Mine’s about 95-98% full, mostly with one-cup containers of various stocks. Stocks are a cornerstone of my cooking, and I am obsessive about maintaining an adequate supply. I find the rich, savory flavor of chicken stock indispensable. I routinely use it as the […]

Posted inFood & Drink

Chicken in wine

“Don’t look around. The leaves are brown. And the sky is a hazy shade of winter.” It’s a dreary, frigid Saturday morning in Springfield, and I’m playing Simon and Garfunkel’s 1966 album “Bookends” as background music for my weekly chore ritual. My Saturday chores involve the stereotypical “husband duties” of vacuuming the carpet and emptying […]

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Farmer’s cheese pancakes

Preserving food was vital for survival before modern refrigeration, especially for milk, which was plentiful in the summer but scarce in winter. About 8,000 years ago, a method was devised to ensure milk could be stored for the cold season: it was curdled using either acid or rennet, and the resulting curds were then preserved […]

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The return of classic steakhouses

The period spanning the early 2010s to the early 2020s saw a significant shift in the restaurant industry, driven by growing consumer interest in ethical and sustainable food, which in turn boosted demand for more plant-based menu options.  Dan Barber’s The Third Plate, published in 2014, envisioned a future in which vegetables moved to the […]

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