This week’s column is dedicated to a deeply caring connection: women and their “kids” (a pun very much intended).
The late 1970s marked a period of two parallel cultural movements in the U.S. This intensely creative era fundamentally changed the way America works and what America eats. While the personal computer was being invented in a California garage by Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak, a parallel revolution was taking place with artisanal foods. As these tech icons redefined the modern workplace, a group of pioneering women – dubbed the “Goat Ladies of the Eighties” – were laying the groundwork for the American artisanal goat cheese industry.
While goat cheese was common throughout Europe in the 1970s and 1980s, domestic chèvre (a French term meaning “goat” that refers to cheese made from goat’s milk) was essentially nonexistent in America. This landscape was transformed by a generation of young and unanimously female cheesemakers. These pioneers, motivated by hippie ideals and the return-to-the-land movement, introduced artisanal goat cheese to the American public.
In contrast to the rivalry among men in the burgeoning technology sector, the Goat Ladies took a more collaborative path. They shared information, asked each other questions and learned and grew through trial and error. Their shared commitment ultimately altered the culinary landscape of America, turning a once-unfamiliar product into a grocery-store staple.
Movement leaders such as Laura Chenel and Mary Keene (founder of Cypress Grove in California) were joined by key figures, including Vermont Creamery co-founder Allison Hooper and Judy Schad of Capriole Goat Cheese. During the late 20th century, these women educated Americans about goat cheese, eventually bringing chèvre into the mainstream with support from chefs like Alice Waters and Wolfgang Puck.
One might wonder, “Why women?” and “Why goats?” In her influential 1971 counterculture manual, Living on the Earth, Alicia Bay Laurel wrote: “Many people find goat milk more digestible than cow’s milk. Goats are more efficient to raise than cows; you get more milk for the amount of food they eat, and goats are less fussy in their food choices. I personally prefer goat cheeses for their flavor, and I think goats are loaded with personality.”
Their back-to-the-land journey often began with a few goats, which were easier to manage than cattle. As their herds grew, the women faced a surplus of milk and no established market. This prompted them to turn to the age-old practice of cheesemaking. Because they were introducing a new product to Americans, their businesses grew slowly, allowing them time to master artisanal skills and even study with experts in France.
Without a demand for their products and lacking a distribution network, these early cheeses were mainly sold at farmers markets and to restaurants. Alice Waters of Chez Panisse and Wolfgang Puck of Spago became early customers of Chenel and brought chèvre into the mainstream by featuring it prominently on their menus. Hooper would drive from Vermont to New York City in an old Subaru station wagon, carrying a cooler full of cheese, to deliver to the likes of Eric Ripert of La Bernardin and Daniel Boulud of restaurant Daniel.
The “Goat Ladies” left a lasting legacy; their industry saw U.S. sales hit $8.36 billion last year. The influence of these pioneers sparked a journey in my own life, reflected in my deep passion for chèvre – it truly is the heart of my world. Today, I am deeply involved in the chèvre community through two roles: as a chef at Caprae in Champaign and a sales clerk for Springfield’s Salt Fork Food Works Food Hub. Through these positions, I have the privilege of sharing the rich history and diverse flavors of artisanal chèvre with our local community. I often meet people who claim they don’t like goat cheese, often because of a past experience with a product that was too “goaty” or improperly handled. If you are one, I would love the chance to change your opinion by introducing you to the delicate, creamy and complex varieties being produced today!
Chez Panisse baked goat cheese with garden salad
(adapted from Chèvre! The Goat Cheese Cookbook by Laura Chenel)
During a visit to Berkeley in 1993, I dined at the legendary Chez Panisse. This is the salad that sparked my lifelong passion for fresh chèvre!
Makes 4 salads
Ingredients:
6 ounces fresh chèvre
4 sprigs fresh thyme
Extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 cup of bread crumbs or panko, pulsed briefly in a food processor
1 teaspoon dry thyme
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper, to taste
4 handfuls of mesclun or spring mix lettuces
Day-old baguette
4 tablespoons butter
2 cloves of garlic
Preparation:
Shape the chèvre into four one-inch discs or balls. Refrigerate them uncovered on a tray for three to 24 hours until the surface is dry. This firming process prevents the cheese from breaking down and clouding the oil.
Pour olive oil into a clean, wide-mouth mason jar until it is halfway full. Gently add the goat cheese rounds one at a time, adding a little olive oil between each one so they are fully immersed. Tuck the fresh thyme sprigs into the jar, then add enough olive oil to cover. Seal the jars and refrigerate for at least 3 hours. The marinated cheese tastes best after two days.
When ready to assemble the salad, mix together the breadcrumbs and dried thyme in a bowl.
Prepare the vinaigrette: In a small jar with a lid, combine the mustard, ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil and red wine vinegar, then shake the jar vigorously to emulsify. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Wash and dry the lettuce.
To make the croutons, slice the baguette into 1/4-inch rounds. Melt the butter in a microwave or a skillet, then brush it onto each slice. Place them in a 350-degree oven for approximately five-seven minutes, baking until they reach a light, golden-brown color.
Peel and cut the garlic cloves in half. While still warm, rub each crouton with the garlic.
Increase the oven temperature to 400 degrees. Coat the marinated chèvre rounds thoroughly with the bread crumb mixture and arrange them in a lightly oiled baking dish. Bake the rounds for approximately 6 minutes, or until golden brown and just beginning to bubble.
Toss the salad greens with a light coating of vinaigrette and portion them onto four salad plates. Place a goat cheese round in the middle of each plate and arrange the toasted baguette croutons around the cheese to finish.
Note: The marinated goat cheese can be kept refrigerated for up to one week.
This article appears in May 14-20, 2026.
