When you think of takeout, the options that usually come to mind are cartons
of Chinese food, a pizza, or a bucket of fried chicken. Homemade eggplant Parmesan
and stuffed artichokes probably aren’t the kind of dishes you usually pick up
for dinner on the way home from work — but they should be.
A tiny business in a strip mall on Springfield’s west side is one of the city’s
takeout treasures. Carmelo and Catherine Maggiore and their two sons, Michael
and Joseph, operate Buon Appetito in Fairhills Mall. The eatery has a few small
tables for dining, but it’s mostly a takeout business for customers who want
to sample family recipes without spending hours in the kitchen.
What makes the restaurant special, besides its delicious food, is that the
Maggiores serve up a rich history and tradition with each dish to customers
who take the time to listen. “We share with the public,” says Carmelo, a native
of Sicily.
The family focuses on providing food that is fresh and old-fashioned, Carmelo
says. He and his wife, a Springfield native, moved here eight years ago after
operating a similar restaurant in New York.
“It’s a disgrace how people eat,” says Carmelo, referring to the popularity
of fast-food meals loaded with calories and preservatives but, in his opinion,
lacking in taste. He’s as passionate about the way his food is prepared as he
is about how it tastes. He explains that he uses only fresh produce and heart-healthy
ingredients such as olive oil, low-sodium cheeses, and fresh vegetables. Carmelo
says he tries to educate customers about the importance of eating homemade dishes
prepared with the finest ingredients.
“We offer traditional dishes that go back 3,000 years. Behind each dish there
is a story and a history,” he says. “Our cooking comes from the heart.”
Son Michael notes that the wreck of a 2,000-year-old Roman ship laden with
olive oil, wine, and honey was recently discovered off the coast of Sicily.
The vessel apparently sank while transporting these goods. “These are all of
our traditions that go back 2,000 years or more. You have to be from the Mediterranean
to know our food. Olive oil, eggplant, cauliflower, and broccoli are all from
the Mediterranean. Many of our dishes go back to the Roman Empire. Nobody knows
the history behind each dish, so we explain to our customers,” Michael says.
“The success of our business is two things: the food we serve and the people
who come here. We really appreciate it,” he adds.
Indeed, a customer who asks about any dish on the day’s menu is encouraged
and, if need be, enthusiastically persuaded to try samples as descriptions of
the ingredients are given. The menu, which changes daily, generally includes
four pasta dishes, two meat dishes, a few side dishes, and three desserts. Dishes
include spinach, beef, and eggplant lasagna; spaghetti with fresh artichokes,
garlic, wine, and olive oil; broiled and breaded chicken breast served with
potatoes; penne noodles with meatballs; handmade rustica fettuccine with homemade
sausage, fresh tomatoes, and olive oil; stuffed peppers; ravioli; stew; stuffed
artichokes; eggplant Parmesan; or pizza. Gnocchi is offered each Saturday. All
of the food — even the sausage, ravioli, and pizza dough — is homemade.
Buon Appetito’s menu reflects what the Maggiores are in the mood to prepare
on any given day. It also reflects what produce is in season. This time of year,
several artichoke dishes are being offered — stuffed, fried, tossed with pasta.
In the summer, more dishes featuring eggplant, peppers, cauliflower, and broccoli
are offered.
Desserts, which include cannoli, tiramisu, pies, and cakes, are displayed
in a glass case. There’s no written menu, so seeing what’s available each day
is always a pleasant surprise.
Customers can order takeout dinners in one-pound containers, which are filled
with one chosen option or several. Each container costs $10 and holds enough
to serve two people. For $12 you get a complete dinner, including a salad. “It
costs you less than breakfast,” says Carmelo says. Homemade rolls are included
free with each entrée.
During a recent visit, I sampled each of the day’s entrées, which included
a spicy pasta dish with sausage and a lightly breaded chicken breast. Everything
I tasted was delicious, and the menu offered a nice variety of options. I decided
on two versions of spaghetti. In the first, the pasta was tossed with garlic,
olive oil, cauliflower, and broccoli rabe. This simple dish was wonderfully
executed, with just the right amount of oil, cheese, and garlic to bring a burst
of flavor to each bite. In the other version, the spaghetti was tossed with
a tomato-and-artichoke sauce, which was richer. Both were delicious.
For dessert, I tried the lemon and orange sponge cakes, which were so moist
that they melted in my mouth. The cannoli was divine. The traditional Italian
pastry, made with smooth, creamy ricotta cheese filling inside a tubular crust,
was the perfect way to end a meal — and I didn’t even have to do dishes. Isn’t
that the point of takeout?
Buon Appetito is located at 1941 W. Monroe St., in the Fairhills Mall; 217-698-9844.
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Sat.
Ice break
There’s a reason that the corner of Durkin Drive and Lawrence Avenue is crowded
in the afternoons these days. It’s because the Ice Deli is open for the season.
The tiny stand offers 54 varieties of flavored ice, such as coffee, coconut,
cotton candy, cinnamon, cheesecake, brandy, kiwi, grape, blackberry, tangerine,
tutti frutti, spearmint, sour cherry, praline, peppermint, lime, and orange.
Several sugar-free flavors are also available.
More than 180 specialty flavors are offered. Some are named for movies and
action heroes, such Little Mermaid, Lion King, Harry Potter, Wolverine, and
Superman.
There are also creamy ice treats, made with milk, aimed at adult customers.
Those flavors include Irish cream, Kahlua, key lime, and brandy Alexander, made
with brandy, chocolate and vanilla velvet flavorings.
Ice Deli is located in the Chateau Village parking lot (home to Soccer
World) at the corner of Durkin and Lawrence. Hours: 3:30-9 p.m. Mon.-Fri. and
2-9 p.m. Sat. and Sun.
This article appears in May 27 – Jun 2, 2004.
