Buckwheat has been on my mind quite a bit this summer.
For a recent cheese-themed dinner at Prairie Fruits Farm and Creamery, my task was to prepare buckwheat crepes for the main course, serving two per plate for 80 guests. Working with buckwheat flour proved challenging, and it took a few failed attempts with a test batch before I perfected my method. As I scaled up the recipe, it became clear that the task would be incredibly time-consuming, though luckily, these crepes can be prepared a day in advance and stored in the fridge. My trials showed that each crepe required 2 ½ to 3 minutes of cooking time. Even with two pans going at once, I anticipated it could be a six-hour endeavor.
Cultivated primarily for its grain-like seeds, buckwheat is a highly nutritious and versatile flowering plant related to rhubarb. Despite its misleading name, it is neither a grass nor a variety of wheat. As it is not a true grain. Buckwheat is safe for those with gluten sensitivities. However, because it lacks gluten, buckwheat dough is quite fragile when dry and less springy when boiled. To make it more manageable, buckwheat flour is commonly blended with wheat flour, which provides the gluten necessary for structure, elasticity and a resilient texture in pasta and baked goods.
Buckwheat is well known as the base for soba, which are slender Japanese noodles. During the Edo period (1603–1868), the Japanese developed a meticulous, time-consuming method of kneading water into buckwheat flour, rolling it very thin, and slicing it into strands. Because pure buckwheat lacks elasticity, most soba sold in the West includes wheat flour for pliability, meaning it is not gluten-free. These noodles are commonly served chilled with a dipping sauce or stir-fried with meat and vegetables as yakisoba.
Years ago, I watched master artisan Shuichi Kotani hand-craft fresh soba at the now-closed Soba Totto in Manhattan. Using only buckwheat flour and water, he kneaded the dough until satiny, rolled it into a three-foot sheet about an eighth of an inch thick, folded it into four layers, and hand-sliced it into delicate strands. After being blanched, rinsed and cooled, the noodles were served on a traditional woven bamboo zura tray accompanied by a dipping sauce made with dashi, soy sauce and mirin.
Soba noodles have a warm nutty flavor with a clean, firm bite, and they are also incredibly nutritious. According to Kotani: “Soba is high in protein, soluble fiber, vitamin B1, B2, as well as choline, which can prevent cancer and liver diseases.”
Living in my hippie bus while working in Champaign means going without air conditioning, making me very hesitant to use the stovetop on hot days. To manage the recent heat wave, I pre-cooked some store-bought soba noodles at my workplace and stored them in the fridge. Chilling soba noodles definitely improves them and makes them easier to handle, providing a quick, effortless, no-cook meal option. I love eating them cold with a soy dipping sauce, or utilizing them as the foundation for a refreshing cold salad.
Soba noodles are quite delicate and can easily be overcooked. They need to be briefly cooked in unsalted water, then drained and rinsed in cold water to remove excess starch, cooled in an ice bath, then drained again and tossed with a little oil to prevent clumping. The noodles can be cooked ahead and kept in the refrigerator for up to 3 days; they are actually better after chilling in the fridge.
Zaru soba (Cold buckwheat noodles with dipping sauce)
Served cold, zaru soba is a traditional Japanese dish featuring buckwheat noodles presented on a bamboo tray. It is enjoyed alongside “mentsuyu,” a dashi-based dipping sauce. This refreshing meal is ideal for hot days!
Serves 2
Ingredients:
For the dipping sauce (Mentsuyu):
1 cup of dashi stock, either made from scratch (see note below), or prepared by dissolving 1 teaspoon of Hondashi instant dashi powder in 1 cup of water
¼ cup soy sauce
3 tablespoons mirin
½ teaspoon sugar
For the noodles and serving:
2 standard bundles dried soba noodles (200 grams or 7 oz)
Ice water bath (for shocking the noodles)
Toasted sesame oil or a neutral oil to prevent clumping after cooking
Condiments and toppings
1 sheet nori (dried seaweed), cut into thin strips (kizami nori)
1–2 scallions, thinly sliced
Wasabi paste (to taste)
Grated daikon radish (optional, squeezed of excess moisture)
Note: Instructions for making homemade dashi can be found here: https://www.illinoistimes.com/food-drink/stock-recommendation-16586733/
Preparation:
In a small saucepan, combine the dashi stock, soy sauce, mirin and sugar. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat to cook off the alcohol from the mirin and dissolve the sugar (about one–two minutes). Remove from heat and let cool completely. Chill in the refrigerator or set the pan in an ice bath to speed up the process.
Bring a large pot filled with unsalted water to a rolling boil. Add the noodles, reduce to a simmer, and gently stir to prevent them from sticking together. Cook the noodles according to the package directions, usually about four-five minutes until al dente.
Quickly empty the noodles into a colander and rinse them thoroughly under cold running water. Rinsing is crucial to eliminate surface starches, ensuring the noodles remain firm and springy instead of becoming gummy. Afterward, submerge the rinsed noodles in a bowl of ice water for 30–60 seconds to chill them completely, then drain very well.
Portion the chilled soba noodles onto two plates. Garnish the noodles by scattering the shredded nori over the top.
Distribute the chilled dipping sauce into small individual bowls, and serve alongside wasabi, scallions and grated daikon on the side.
Combine the scallions, wasabi and daikon directly into your own dipping bowl according to your personal preference. Using chopsticks, dip a bite-sized bundle of noodles halfway into the sauce. Slurp and enjoy!
This article appears in August 6-12, 2026.
