Because everything in a restaurant kitchen requires labeling with masking tape and a black marker, a Sharpie is a permanent fixture in my apron pocket. However, I used to constantly lose them to co-workers who would borrow my Sharpie and never return it. I eventually solved this problem by swapping my black marker’s cap for a yellow one – nobody ever wants to borrow a yellow Sharpie! In a similar vein, while my son was away at college, he dissuaded his dormmates from mooching slices of his pizza by always ordering it with anchovies.
Few culinary ingredients polarize diners quite like the humble anchovy. Being into anchovies isn’t generally something one gets a whole lot of social support for. Declaring my affections usually means that I have to hear that all too familiar “Ooh, gross! I hate anchovies!” Tamar Adler, author of An Everlasting Meal, wrote: “Anchovies divide us into lovers and fighters. No one is neutral. The little fish elicit wistful gazes from their adorers – if you love them, you wonder when you will get your next one – and shudders from objectors, far more numerous, who can’t fathom the injustice of ever having to see one of the nasty things again.”
Why are many Americans so averse to anchovies? The reason is actually quite simple. Most have never tasted a good one. Roughly 97 percent of what is served on pizzas and similar dishes is absolutely dreadful. Calling it “barely edible” might be too generous; the negative reactions happen for a reason. Poor-quality fish, left too long in ship holds at the docks, are heavily salted to conceal their inherent instability and simply do not taste good. Packing substandard fish into stylish tins does not make it any less terrible.
On the other hand, artisanal options provide a clean, meaty essence of the sea that balances savory sauces much like vanilla enhances baked treats. When subtly incorporated into a slow-simmering tomato sauce, a premium anchovy lifts every flavor in the dish. Packed with natural glutamates, these tiny fish serve as flavor enhancers that dissolve seamlessly into stews, pasta sauces and Caesar dressings. They provide a rich background depth that critics often enjoy without even realizing it.
I compare the impact of anchovies to that of salt. It is obvious when a dish is under-seasoned or overly salty, but when perfectly balanced, it operates quietly in the background, elevating the other ingredients without drawing attention to itself. When anchovies are gently heated in oil or butter, they dissolve completely into the fat, infusing it with flavor as they melt away.
Anchovies are available in two forms: oil-packed or salt-packed. Oil-packed fillets are convenient and can be used straight from the jar or tin. I like Fishwife Cantabrian Anchovies in Extra Virgin Olive Oil. A 1.73-ounce tin sells for around $10. Salt-packed anchovies are another high-quality option. A 28-ounce tin of Agostino Recca Salted Whole Anchovies sells for around $30. Unlike pre-filleted anchovies packed in oil, the salt-packed variety requires some preparation. You must soak them in water to rinse off the salt and then fillet them by hand to remove all the bones.
Italian salsa verde
Traditionally served with boiled meats and often paired with fish, this tangy green Italian sauce also complements grilled dishes beautifully. When making it for fish, use lemon juice; alternatively, swap in red wine vinegar if serving with meat.
Adapted from Marcella Hazan’s The Classic Italian Cookbook, Ballantine Books, 1973.
Ingredients:
2 1/2 tablespoons Italian flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
2 tablespoons capers, finely chopped
6 anchovy fillets, mashed in olive a mortar or a bowl
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon red wine vinegar (for meat) or 1 tablespoon strained lemon juice (for fish)
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt, to taste
Preparation:
Put the parsley, capers, mashed anchovy fillets, garlic and mustard in a bowl and stir to mix thoroughly. Add the vinegar or lemon juice and stir again. Add the olive oil, beating it vigorously into the other ingredients. Taste for salt and for piquancy. Add vinegar or lemon juice if you want it tarter, but add very small amounts at a time.
Note: This sauce can be refrigerated for up to a week. Stir it well again before serving.
Spaghetti with anchovies and breadcrumbs
If you don’t mention it, nobody will know this pasta dish has anchovies. When gently heated in oil, these tiny fish dissolve completely into the fat, melting away while serving as natural flavor enhancers packed with glutamates. They infuse the dish with a rich background depth that diners often enjoy without ever realizing the anchovies are there.
Serves 4
Ingredients:
Kosher salt
½ cup coarse breadcrumbs from stale bread, pulsed in a food processor
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling
10 ounces of dried spaghetti (approximately ⅔ of a 1 lb package)
6 good-quality oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained
3 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
A pinch of crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
2 tablespoons fresh Italian parsley, chopped
Preparation:
Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil
In a small skillet, warm two tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the breadcrumbs and toast for about five minutes, stirring frequently, until crisp and uniformly light golden. Remove the skillet from the heat and set it aside.
Drop the spaghetti into the boiling water, cooking it until it is nearly al dente (roughly 1 minute less than the package instructions)
In a large skillet set over medium heat, warm the remaining olive oil while the pasta cooks. Toss in the sliced garlic and anchovies, cooking for two to three minutes, stirring constantly until the garlic turns a pale golden color and the anchovies dissolve completely into the oil. Finally, stir in the red pepper flakes.
Ladle approximately one cup of the starchy pasta water directly into the skillet with the garlic and anchovy oil. Allow it to simmer quickly until the liquid reduces to roughly ⅔ cup.
Using tongs, transfer the al dente spaghetti straight from the water into the skillet and toss vigorously to fully coat the strands. If the sauce seems too tight or dry, splash in another tablespoon or two of the pasta water. Turn off the heat, mix in the chopped parsley, and gently fold in the toasted breadcrumbs right before serving.
This article appears in July 23-29, 2026.
