Juneteenth, a commemoration of the emancipation of enslaved African Americans in the U.S., is a day rich in traditions. This celebration provides opportunities for community bonding, education and remembrance, ensuring that the spirit and significance of Juneteenth are passed on to future generations.
Central to these celebrations are elaborate feasts where families and communities gather to share in a bounty of culturally significant dishes.
The color red holds a special place in Juneteenth celebrations. Red foods, such as red velvet cake, and red drinks are believed to represent the bloodshed of enslaved ancestors. One such “red” food was the Sea Island red pea, brought over to the Americas on slave ships. Slowly simmered in cast iron, these peas transform into a rich gravy, traditionally served with local rice. Years of daily preparation left distinctive red rings inside the “pea pot” – markings still visible today on antique plantation cookware.
Abandoned during the Depression, the production of Sea Island red peas nearly disappeared along with the local Carolina Gold rice. Thankfully, a few dedicated gardeners and seed merchants have preserved these crops, enabling us to enjoy them today. These peas were vital to sustainable rice farming rotations in the antebellum South, enriching the soil. Even now, they serve this purpose, aiding on-farm soil management in the Carolina low country. A passionate advocate for the preservation of crops near extinction, chef Sean Brock said, “The Sea Island red peas tell a wonderful story and have such a wonderful, earthy flavor.”
Red drinks, which now hold a special place in African American celebrations, also have roots in West Africa. In pre- and post-colonial West Africa, a red tea known as bissap, made from indigenous hibiscus flowers, was used to welcome guests – a custom that persisted after the slave trade. Bissap is known for its tart, herbal flavor and its rich red color. Hibiscus sabdariffa was introduced to the West Indies by enslaved Africans, where it thrived because of the similar climate. In Jamaica, bissap became known as sorrel, and in Latin American countries, it is agua de Jamaica. A tea was made from dried hibiscus flowers. A sweetener, originally molasses and later cane sugar, plus other flavoring ingredients, was added to balance the inherent bitterness of the hibiscus flower.
“Having the same plant in the tropical Americas was a semblance of hope,” notes Michael W. Twitty, culinary historian and author of The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South. “You reinforced your identity, you reinforced the things that made you happy, you reinforced memories of things that would otherwise be lost.”
Hibiscus sabdariffa, unfortunately, doesn’t grow well in the temperate climate of the American South, and without access to hibiscus, the enslaved and their descendants relied upon fruit and dyes to create the desired red color. The generic term “red drink” was born, which included red Kool-Aid and red sodas. In the 1960s, Texas-based Big Red Soda became associated with Juneteenth celebrations.
Sea Island red pea salad
Yields 4-6 servings
Ingredients:
1 cup Sea Island red peas (or substitute black-eyed peas)
½ teaspoon kosher salt plus more for seasoning
1 bay leaf
3 sprigs fresh thyme
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1/4 cup finely chopped celery stalks (reserve 1/4 cup of the celery leaves)
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
1/4 cup finely chopped red bell pepper
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon thinly sliced chives
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
Preparation:
Place the red peas in a bowl and remove any that appear to be damaged. Add water to the bowl, and other bad peas might float to the top. Remove them, drain the rest, and rinse twice more. Transfer to a medium pot and cover with three cups of water. Soak for three hours or overnight.
Bring the pot with the peas to a boil for 15 minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium; add the bay leaf and thyme sprigs and gently simmer, adding more water by ½-cupfuls as needed to keep the peas covered, until they are tender but still hold their shape, about 20-25 minutes.
Remove the pan from the burner, discard the bay leaf and thyme sprigs, and season with 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Heat two tablespoons of oil in a medium pot over medium heat, and add the celery, onion and bell pepper. Cook until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook a few minutes more. Add the peas with their cooking liquid and return to a simmer. Cook until the flavors have melded and the sauce has thickened, 10-15 minutes. Remove from the heat; stir in the butter. Set aside.
Lightly toast the coriander seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat, shaking frequently, for two-three minutes, until fragrant and slightly darkened. Let cool, then coarsely grind in a spice grinder. In a small bowl, mix the celery leaves, parsley, chives, lemon zest and ground coriander. Drizzle with oil, toss well and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Transfer the peas to a serving dish and top with the greens. Serve at room temperature.
Cold brew hibiscus iced tea
I have found that a two-hour cold infusion extracts as much of the pigments as a hot infusion, resulting in a fruitier, brighter flavor.
Makes 1 quart
Ingredients:
1/2 cup dried hibiscus flowers
1 cinnamon stick
4 cups cold water
2 tablespoons simple syrup, honey or agave (or more to taste)
Mint sprig (optional, for garnish)
Preparation:
Place the hibiscus and cinnamon stick in a large jar or bowl. Add water. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Add sweetener to taste. Strain out the solids and serve over ice.
Store the brewed tea covered in the refrigerator for up to one week.
Notes:
You can purchase dried hibiscus flowers (sometimes labeled as flor de Jamaica) at natural food stores, Latin markets or online retailers.
Peter Glatz is a 72-year old retired dentist and aspiring chef who traded his drill for a chef’s knife (but kept his tweezers) and now fills bellies instead of cavities.
This article appears in Juneteenth 2025.
