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Delicata rings.

How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. I love your attractive yellow and green striped skin. I love your light orange flesh and mild, sweet, almost nutty flavor. I love your compact size. I love that you are easy to slice through and your tender edible skin doesn’t require peeling. You cook faster than your bigger cousins, making you perfect for a weeknight meal. You are delicious warm, at room temperature or even cold in a salad. Of all the members of the cucurbit family, it is you, my darling delicata, who are my favorite.

Delicata squash starts showing up at markets in September and is easy to prepare. Wash it well because you’ll be eating that pretty skin. The skin softens when cooked. You can cut it into doughnut shapes by slicing them crosswise and removing the seeds. You can cut them in half lengthwise, and after scooping out the seeds, the halves can be roasted as canoes. Or you can cut the halves crosswise into little half moons.

Roast the squash pieces on a sheet tray in an oven heated to 425 degrees. Though I usually line my sheet trays with parchment paper for easy cleanup, roasting the squash on a bare metal, preheated sheet tray yields superior browning. The moisture in the squash will begin evaporating immediately, allowing the insides to soften quickly without overcooking the outside surface. When you preheat a sheet tray, don’t grease it. Instead of oiling the sheet tray, oil the squash. Brush or toss the pieces in a bowl with cooking oil or melted butter. I prefer the taste and aroma of butter. The squash pieces need to be spread out on the tray; if the tray is overcrowded, your squash will steam instead of browning.

Basic roasted delicata squash
Serves 4

Ingredients:
2 medium delicata squash, washed and dried
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preparation:

Place an oven rack to its lowest position and preheat to 425 degrees.

Cut the squash in half lengthwise and remove the seeds.

Cut each squash half crosswise into ½-inch half moons. Season the squash with salt and pepper. Toss the squash pieces in a bowl with melted butter until thoroughly coated.

Arrange the squash rounds on a preheated sheet tray, leaving space in between.

Roast until the squash slices are golden brown on the bottom, about 15 minutes. Then, turn the squash pieces over, rotate the tray and roast for an additional 10 minutes until the second side is golden brown and fork-tender.

Stuffed delicata rings

This is a way to fancy up delicata squash.

Serves four as an appetizer or small side dish.

Ingredients:
2 medium delicata squash, washed and dried
½ cup avocado or grapeseed oil, plus more oiling the sheet tray
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided
1 teaspoon maple syrup
1 teaspoon light miso

Preparation:

Place the oven rack to its lowest position and preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Cut one squash crosswise into 2-inch cylinders. Cut the other squash in half lengthwise. Remove the seeds.

Season the squash with salt and pepper. Brush the squash flesh with two tablespoons of melted butter.

Arrange the squash halves and rounds, flesh side down, on a preheated sheet tray, leaving space in between.

Roast until the squash pieces are golden brown on the bottom. This will be about 15 to 20 minutes. Turn them over, rotate the tray and roast for an additional 10 to 15 minutes until the second side is golden brown and fork-tender. Set aside to cool.

Scoop out the flesh of the squash halves and transfer to a bowl. Add the maple syrup, miso, and the remaining two tablespoons of butter and mash with a fork until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Fill the centers of the squash rounds with the mash and return to the oven to warm through.

Roasted maple gochujang delicata squash

Gochugang is a Korean chili paste available at Asian markets and many grocery stores. If you don’t have real maple syrup, substitute honey or agave syrup. Cover your sheet tray with parchment to avoid a messy cleanup.

Serves four as a side dish.

Ingredients:
2 medium delicata squash, washed and dried
4 tablespoons melted butter or olive oil
4 tablespoons gochujang
4 tablespoons maple syrup
½ teaspoon kosher salt

Preparation:

Place the oven rack to its lowest position and preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Cover a sheet tray with parchment and spray.

Slice the squash lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Cut the halves into ½-inch slices.

In a bowl, combine the butter or oil, gochujang, maple syrup and salt. Toss the squash pieces in the sauce until coated. Remove the squash and reserve the remaining sauce.

Arrange on the sheet tray. Do not overcrowd. Roast for 15 minutes, turn the squash pieces over, rotate the tray, and roast for an additional 12 minutes or until fork-tender.

Remove from the sheet tray, return to the bowl with the remaining sauce, and toss again.

Baked breaded delicata rings

These are great as a snack or appetizer.

Serves two to four.

Ingredients:
2 medium delicata squash, washed and dried
½ cups AP flour
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon smoked paprika
3 eggs
1 cup panko (or breadcrumbs)
1 cup grated Parmesan, plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves (optional)
Olive oil for drizzling

Homemade or store-bought marinara sauce

Preparation:

Place the oven rack to its lowest position and preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Cut squash into ½-inch rings and remove the seeds.

Cover a sheet tray with parchment and spray.

Set up three small bowls: In the first bowl, combine the flour, garlic powder, salt, and pepper. In the second bowl, beat the eggs. In the third bowl, combine the panko, Parmesan and thyme leaves. With your left hand, dredge a ring in flour. With your right hand, coat the ring in the egg wash, shaking off the excess. With your dry left hand, coat the ring in panko and press to adhere. Transfer to the sheet tray. Repeat until all the rings are breaded. Lightly drizzle with olive oil.

Bake for 15 minutes, rotate the sheet tray, turn the rings over and then bake for 10 more minutes.

Serve with marinara sauce and additional Parmesan.

After the passing of his wife, Julianne (former Illinois Times food columnist), Peter Glatz decided to retire from a 40-year career as a dentist to reinvent himself as a chef at the age of 66. In his short...

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