A few weeks ago I made my annual pilgrimage to the Great Pumpkin Patch in Arthur. The Great Pumpkin Patch is a special place. They grow over 300 varieties of pumpkins, squash and gourds from over 20 countries. I get as excited about winter squash in October as I do about asparagus in May or tomatoes in July. I returned from Great Pumpkin Patch with a whole trunkful of squash, ranging in size from small striped Delicatas to giant grey Hubbards. Every time I make my annual visit, I feel like a kid in a candy store, and buy way too much. Right now, two big piles of multicolored squash are decorating my front porch.
When asked what I plan to do with all this squash, I glibly reply: “Cook them.” Fortunately, winter squash keeps well, so I have all winter to use them up. Most winter squashes get sweeter as they age, as excess moisture evaporates and the natural sugars concentrate.
These days you’ll find winter squash in many preparations in my kitchen. Squash soup or squash risotto might be simmering away on my stovetop. Sausage-stuffed squash might be roasting in my oven. My dehydrator is drying trays of squash seeds. Jars of squash kimchi are fermenting in my basement. My freezer holds bags of squash and cheese-filled ravioli.
One of the best methods for cooking squash is also one of the easiest: a simple roasting at high heat intensifies the squash’s flavor by evaporating moisture, converting its complex carbohydrates to sugars, then caramelizing those sugars. Baking the squash cut side down concentrates the flavors and sugars against the pan and within the peel of the squash. Spreading oil over all surfaces of the cut squash before roasting promotes even distribution of heat. As the squash roasts, a clear squash liquid will begin to seep out around the edges of the squash. Winter squash is high in natural sugars, and when cooked in a hot (400°) oven, these juices will begin to caramelize as the water cooks away and the sugars pass the boiling point. The juices will at first be clear, but 5-10 minutes later they’ll start to turn a light caramel brown and the edges of the squash will start to blacken a bit. This is when the squash develops optimum flavor.
My recipe for Miso-Squash Soup is based on this roasting technique. The same preparation can be made thicker by using less stock and can be stirred into risotto or used as a pasta sauce or filling. I always used to peel smooth-skinned squash like butternuts, but now I find it easier to remove the skins after roasting. I then can add the skins to my stock to extract any remaining flavor before straining into the puree. I also save the seeds. After rinsing and soaking overnight in salt water, I drain, toss with olive oil, season with salt, and roast at 350° for about 10 to 15 minutes Using dashi as stock unlocks the squash’s natural flavors and the miso imparts a nutty umami-rich savoriness.
Miso-Squash Soup
Serves 4
Ingredients:
1 (about 1 ½ pounds) butternut (or kabocha) squash
1 whole head of garlic
1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus extra for brushing the squash and garlic
1 medium onion, diced
2 medium carrots, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1-inch knob of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
1 large crisp apple, peeled, cored and diced
2 tablespoons instant dashi (such as Hondashi) dissolved in 1 1/2 quarts warm water (or substitute low-sodium vegetable or chicken stock)
2 tablespoons white or red miso paste
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
For garnish:
A drizzle of crème fraiche or dollop of yogurt (optional)
2 medium scallions, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced on the bias)
Preparation:
Preheat the oven to 425 °F. Cover a baking sheet with parchment.
Trim a small slice off both ends of the squash and set upright on your cutting board. Carefully cut the squash in half lengthwise. Using a sturdy spoon or ice cream scoop, scrape out the seeds and pulp from the cavity. Brush cut surfaces with 1 teaspoon of the vegetable oil. Place squash halves, cut side down, on the baking sheet.
Prepare the garlic: Peel away a few of the papery outer layers while keeping the head intact. Slice about ½ inch off the top to expose the cloves. Drizzle with a little oil and a sprinkle of salt. Add the garlic to the baking sheet with the cut side up.
Move the baking sheet to the oven. Roast until the squash gives off its sugary liquid and the edges of the squash start to blacken. This should take between 45 minutes to an hour depending on the size and age of the squash. Periodically check the garlic and remove it from the oven when it starts to turn golden. This may occur at a different rate than the squash. Set squash and garlic aside to cool.
In a large heavy-bottomed stock pot, heat 1 tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion, carrot, celery and ginger. Season with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until vegetables are just starting to soften, about 8-10 minutes.
When cool enough to handle, remove the skin from the roasted squash halves. If it doesn’t pull off easily, carefully scoop out the roasted squash and add to the pot with the sautéed vegetables. Squeeze out the roasted garlic cloves into the pot. Add the diced apple. Stir in the dashi or stock and simmer for about 20 minutes.
Allow the soup to cool for a few minutes. Working in batches, fill a blender no more than halfway with the mixture, and place a towel over the top. Purée each batch until smooth and return to the pot. Alternately, purée the soup directly in the pot with an immersion blender.
Stir in the miso and lemon juice, season to taste with salt, and if it seems too thick, feel free to add a little water.
Just before serving, garnish with the green onions and drizzle with crème fraiche or a dollop of yogurt, if desired.
This article appears in From colleges to cannabis.
