Most vegetables are suitable for grilling, though
there are a few delicate exceptions. Densely textured vegetables usually
need to be partially or wholly cooked before grilling, and all should be
brushed or tossed with oil or butter and salted before being put on the
grill. Other flavorings such as herbs, vinegar, lemon juice, and sugar may
be used. Each type vegetable should be cut to a uniform thickness. Small
vegetables or vegetables cut into bite-size pieces are easiest to deal with
when skewered or stir-“fried” in a grill basket.
If you’re using charcoal, place the hot
coals on one side of the grill, or, if you have a gas grill, light just one
side if possible, creating a place to move vegetables from one side to the
other to keep them from burning. In general, a moderate- to low-heat fire
is desirable. Here is just a partial list of vegetables suitable for
grilling, with tips on preparing each.
VEGETABLE-GRILLING GUIDE
Artichokes —
Trim the artichokes and boil them until just barely tender in salted and
acidulated water (add white vinegar or lemon juice, about 1/4 cup per quart
of water). Remove the ‘choke and cut it in half; brush it with oil,
sprinkle it with salt, and grill it, cut side down, until lightly browned.
Asparagus —
Brush spears with oil and lightly salt them. Choose thick spears and keep
the tips away from the hottest part of the fire. Grill just until
crisp/tender.
Corn on the cob —
Corn can be grilled in two ways: Peel back the husks, remove the silks, and
pull the husks back over the corn before placing it on the fire, or leave
the husks pulled back (tied with a strip of the husk and left in place to
serve as a convenient “handle.” Brush the corn with butter or
oil and place it directly on the fire, with the husks off the heat. Turn
frequently until the corn is lightly browned.
Eggplant — Cut
into slices or planks, depending on the type of eggplant being used. The
pieces should be at least 1/2 inch thick. Surfaces that will be placed on
the grill should be peeled; otherwise, peeling is optional. Lightly score
the surfaces that will be placed on the grill. Brush the eggplant with oil
and salt and grill until it’s completely tender. (In the Middle East,
a whole unpeeled eggplant is oiled, placed on the fire, and grilled, with
frequent turns, until the outside is blackened and the inside is fully
cooked and soft. The eggplant is then cut in half and the flesh scooped out
to use in dips and as a purée.)
Leeks — Trim
off the root ends and the tops so that about 3 inches of green remains.
(This is for decorative purposes only; the green part is tough and
inedible.) Slice each leek in half lengthwise, then brush it with oil,
sprinkle it with salt and pepper, and grill until golden brown and very
slightly charred, eight to 12 minutes. Do not turn.
Lettuce —
Most lettuces are too delicate to grill, but there are exceptions. Cut
small heads of romaine, radicchio, or Belgian endive lengthwise, leaving
the stem end intact so that the heads won’t fall apart. Brush the
lettuce lightly with oil and grill it, cut side down, until the cut side is
just lightly browned — the lettuce shouldn’t be completely
wilted.
Mushrooms —
Grill portobellos either whole or in 1/2-inch slices. Large cremini (also
known as baby portobellos), large shiitake, large button mushrooms, and
large oyster mushrooms can also be grilled successfully. Smaller cremini,
shiitake, and button mushrooms can be threaded on skewers. All should be
brushed with oil and salted and peppered before grilling. Grill until
tender and golden brown. In general, delicate wild mushrooms such as morels
and chanterelles are not good candidates for grilling.
Onions — Cut
into slices at least 1/2 inch thick. Reserve the curved ends for other
uses. Pierce the slices with skewers or toothpicks to keep the layers from
separating. Small whole onions, such as cippolini or pearl onions, should
be parboiled before being used for kebabs. Brush the cut sides of the
slices with oil, salt, and pepper and grill the slices on both sides.
Onions can be grilled until completely softened or just crisp/tender,
depending on the onion’s flavor and final intended use.
Peppers —
Clean peppers and slice them into strips at least 1/2 inch thick or cut
them into sections. Oil the slices lightly, sprinkle them with salt, and
grill them to the desired doneness — anywhere from crisp/tender to
completely softened. To smoke roast peppers, place whole untrimmed peppers
directly over the heat. Grill, turning frequently, until the skin is
completely blackened. Place the peppers in a paper or plastic bag and allow
them to rest for at least 10 minutes. (The steam helps loosen the skin.)
Wipe off the charred skin. It’s OK if little bits of the char remain
— that’s part of the flavor. Wiping off the skin with a paper
towel in hand makes things easier. Cut the peppers open over a bowl to
catch the juices, and remove the seeds and stems.
Potatoes —
Potatoes should be cooked just until completely cooked through before grilling. Do not
overcook, or they may crumble during grilling. Trim unpeeled baking
potatoes lengthwise into planks about 1 1/2 inches thick. Steam or boil
just until tender. Salt and pepper the planks, then grill them until quite
brown and crispy on the outside. Round boiling potatoes such as red
potatoes can be cut into quarters or large chunks. (Cut before cooking.) Fingerling
potatoes may be left whole. Boil or steam and proceed as above. For an
extra-crispy crust, whisk a superfine flour such as Wondra into the oil, in
the proportion of one part flour to two parts oil, before brushing the
potatoes.
Summer squashes such as zucchini, yellow squash, and
pattypan — Choose small- to
medium-size squashes that do not have large seeds. Cut them into halves or
planks of even thickness — at least 1/2 inch. (Zucchini or yellow
squash with the blossoms still attached make a lovely presentation, but be
sure to keep the blossoms away from direct heat.) Oil the cut squashes,
sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and grill them to the desired
tenderness. Depending on their thickness and the desired doneness, you may
or may not need to turn them.
Sweet potatoes —
Peel sweet potatoes and cut them into planks in the manner described above
for potatoes, or cut them into quarters. Steam or boil the sweet potatoes just until they’re
cooked. Brush them with oil, salt, and pepper and grill until golden brown.
You may also brush the cut sweet potatoes with equal parts melted butter
and brown sugar, but be extra-careful to keep the sugar from burning.)
Tomatoes —
Choose tomatoes that are ripe but are still firm. Cut a thin slice off the
top of a round tomato; and halve Italian tomatoes. Gently squeeze out some
of the seeds. Oil the cut sides, add salt and pepper, and place the
tomatoes, cut sides down, on the grill. Grill until the tomatoes are
browned and slightly softened; do not overcook, or they’ll be mushy.
Contact Julianne Glatz at realcuisine.jg@gmail.com.
This article appears in Aug 7-13, 2008.
