Raichlen’s recipes come with provenance: stories of where they
come from and how they got there. As often as not, those stories are as
interesting and compelling as the recipes themselves. Here’s what he has
to say about a Bangkok grill mistress, Saisuwan, and her specialty:
“Five
years ago she scraped together enough cash to set up a pushcart….Her
grilling skills became so legendary, guidebooks from all over the world
sing her praises. Saisuwan serves just one dish – but what a dish –
grilled bananas slathered with coconut caramel sauce. You can eat them
for breakfast, as a snack, or for dessert, and the moment you finish,
you’ll very likely find yourself returning for seconds. If you happen to
find yourself near the Sheraton hotel in Bangkok, you’ll recognize
Saisuwan by her trademark white cap and by the sweet scent of bananas
grilling over coconut shell charcoal.”
For the coconut-caramel sauce:
- 1/2 c. palm sugar or light brown sugar
- 1 c. unsweetened coconut milk
- 4 bananas, slightly under-ripe
Combine the sugar and coconut milk in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a
boil over medium heat, whisking to dissolve the sugar. Let the mixture
simmer briskly until it is thick, golden and very flavorful, about 5
minutes. Remove from the heat and let the sauce cool to room
temperature. (This can be made ahead and kept refrigerated for a couple
days ahead. Return to room temperature before using.)
Set up the
grill for direct grilling (placing the bananas directly over the coals)
and prepare/preheat a hot fire.
Brush and oil the grill grate.
Peel the bananas and skewer them through on end if desired. Grill the
bananas until they are lightly browned and partially cooked, 1-2 minutes
per side. Dip the bananas in the coconut-caramel sauce (that’s where
the skewer comes in handy) or brush the bananas on all sides, using a
basting brush, and return them to the grill. Continue grilling the
bananas until they are darkly browned and sizzling, 1-3 minutes longer
per side. Use a bamboo skewer to test for doneness; it should easily
pierce the banana. Transfer to plates or bowls. Spoon the remaining
sauce on top and serve immediately. Serves 4
This article appears in Jul 1-7, 2010.
