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Just the idea of a baked potato in the middle of
summer makes me sweat. There are so many greener, leafier dinner choices at
this time of year that keep the oven dial in its proper “off”
position. What would possess someone to turn the house into a sauna just
for a couple of baked spuds? Blame it on gnocchi. It’ll make you do crazy
things. First, let’s get the pronunciation lesson out
of the way: “nyo-kee.” There you go. It’s an Italian
dumpling, and here’s the deal: You bake the spuds and then scoop out
the insides. Then, with a hand-cranked food mill, you gently purée
the tater flesh, which gives it a silky-smooth texture, a key component to
feathery gnocchi.
First-timers, this cook included, make the mistake of
using too much flour and handling the dough like bread. Unfortunately,
there’s no way to know the error of your gnocchi fondling until
it’s dinnertime, and, baby, if it’s overworked, there’s
no way to run and hide. Pencil erasers come to mind. Instead, think of the process as one big whisper, or,
if you prefer a dance analogy, something Martha Graham, with gentle gliding
motions and swaying of arms. It’s a dance, and it’s quick, but
it must be gentle to yield the desired delicate results. Summer gnocchi begs for basil pesto, which is a
traditional accompaniment in Liguria, but a light marinara sauce of
vine-ripened tomatoes that are slightly warmed would be a respectable
stand-in. Warning: This is not a weeknight dish — unless
you’re really crazy.
Culinary questions? Contact Kim O’Donnel at kim.odonnel@creativeloafing.com.
Potato Gnocchi Adapted from the blog “In Praise of
Sardines” (www.inpraiseofsardines.com)
Two or three medium baking potatoes, such as russet
or Idaho, that are higher in starch and
lower in water content 1 teaspoon salt Pinch of grated nutmeg (optional) 3/4 cup all-purpose flour One large egg, beaten Black pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Wash potatoes and, with a fork, prick all over the
exteriors. Bake potatoes until fork-tender, about an hour and 15
minutes. Place potatoes on counter and, with a knife, slice in
half lengthwise to allow steam to escape. When the potatoes are cool enough
to handle, scoop out the flesh with a spoon and place it in a bowl. Pass
the potatoes through a food mill or ricer until you have 2 cups’
worth of purée. Place the purée on a baking sheet and allow it
to cool completely. When cool, place the potato purée in a mixing
bowl and add salt, nutmeg (if using), flour, and beaten egg. Mix very
gently, using a fork or (lightly) your hands. Mix just until combined and
turn dough out onto a floured work surface.
Cut dough into four sections, working with one at a
time. Cover the remaining three pieces with a dishtowel. Roll the dough into a cigar shape, 6 to 8 inches
long. Cut into six to eight pieces and place them on a lightly floured
baking sheet. Continue with the rest of the dough the same way. Meanwhile,
bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. When water just begins to boil, add salt and then add
eight gnocchi at a time, cooking somewhere between an active simmer and a
boil. In about two minutes, gnocchi will rise to the top. With a slotted
spoon, remove gnocchi and place them in a covered bowl. Add sauce of choice and gently stir; serve
immediately. Serves about three people.
This article appears in Jul 26 – Aug 1, 2007.
