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White fish casserole with cheese, sour cream and onion

A gratin, according to the late chef Julia Child, is simply a preparation in which the top of a sauced dish is browned, usually under a hot broiler. In the first volume of her iconic cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, she describes a gratin as having “a sprinkling of breadcrumbs and grated cheese, and dots of butter, help to form a light brown crust, or gratin, over the sauce.” Undoubtedly one of the ancestors to our hearty, midwestern casseroles, these gratins rely on simple yet flavorful ingredients rather than processed canned soup. Perfect for sweater weather, gratins are also an ideal back-pocket technique to turn to in tricky economic times, elegantly transforming odds and ends from the refrigerator into a satisfying and elegant meal. 

Generally, meats and vegetables should be cooked first before being doused in sauce, which can either be anything from super simple combinations of butter and wine or eggs and cream or slightly more involved sauces such as béchamel, made from milk thickened with roux and egg yolks. Delicate proteins like shrimp and scallops are often handled more delicately and do not require prior cooking. 


Ham and cauliflower gratin 

This is an ideal recipe for using up whatever is on hand (it also happens to be very low carb for anyone who’s counting). Any number of roasted veggies like broccoli, mushrooms, carrots, squash and peppers work beautifully in addition to or in lieu of the cauliflower, even if they’re looking a little tired in the fridge. Serve it with a crisp salad and crusty bread. 

Ingredients:
1 medium head cauliflower, about 2 pounds 
1 tablespoon olive oil 
Salt and Black Pepper 
2 cloves garlic, minced, or ½ teaspoon garlic powder 
3 eggs 
1 ½ cups cream 
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
A pinch of cayenne, to taste
8 thin slices of ham (you can also use 1 ½ cups leftover cooked chicken or canned salmon/tuna) 
¼ cup green onions 
½ cup grated Swiss-type cheese, such as Gruyère
Freshly grated nutmeg
1 tablespoon butter, plus more for buttering the dish 

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut the cauliflower into florets and slice the stems into ½-inch thick pieces. Toss the cauliflower with the olive oil and a sprinkle of salt and pepper, then arrange the cauliflower on a baking sheet in a single layer and transfer to the preheated oven. Bake until just tender, about 10 minutes, then remove from the oven and set aside. 

While the cauliflower is roasting, butter a three-quart glass baking dish. In a small mixing bowl, combine the minced garlic, eggs, cream, salt, pepper and cayenne and whisk well to combine. 

When the cauliflower is done roasting, remove it from the oven and transfer it to the buttered baking dish. Reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees. 

Tuck the sliced ham in around the cauliflower, then sprinkle with the green onions. Pour the egg and cream mixture over the ham and cauliflower and sprinkle with the grated cheese. Top with a light dusting of nutmeg and dot the butter over the top. Bake for 30-40 minutes until well browned and bubbly. Let it rest for 10 minutes before serving. 


Seafood gratin 

Ingredients:
1 pound peeled and deveined shrimp or scallops, or a combination 
Salt, black pepper and cayenne, to taste 
1 stick softened butter 
1 tablespoon minced shallot or green onion 
4 tablespoons minced parsley 
3 cloves minced garlic
1 teaspoon lemon zest, optional
5 tablespoons white wine, divided
3/4 cup fresh breadcrumbs 
1 tablespoon olive oil  

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter a shallow baking dish and arrange the shrimp attractively in the dish. Combine the butter, shallot or green onion, parsley, minced garlic, lemon zest if using and one tablespoon of the wine in a small mixing bowl. Mix well to combine and season to taste with salt and pepper and cayenne. 

Spread the butter mixture over the shrimp in the baking dish. Add the breadcrumbs to the now-empty mixing bowl and drizzle in the olive oil along with a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Drizzle the remaining four tablespoons of wine over the shrimp then top with the breadcrumb mixture. Place in the baking dish in the preheated oven and bake for 10-15 minutes, until the shrimp is cooked through and the breadcrumbs are golden. 


Tomato and white bean gratin

A traditional accompaniment to roast lamb or chicken, this hearty gratin also makes an excellent vegetarian main dish. 

Ingredients:
1 28 ounce can whole peeled tomatoes
2 cans cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 
3-4 cloves garlic, minced 
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary 
A pinch of red chili flakes, to taste 
¾ cup grated Parmesan, divided 
¼ cup dry bread crumbs 
¼ cup olive oil, divided 
Chopped parsley, to serve 

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly coat the inside of a baking dish with olive oil. Add the tomatoes to the baking dish and use your hands to crush the tomatoes. Add the drained and rinsed beans, minced garlic, rosemary, chili flakes to taste, ½ cup of the Parmesan and 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Mix lightly to combine and season to taste with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine the remaining olive oil, Parmesan and breadcrumbs. Spread this over the bean mixture, then place the baking dish in the oven. Bake for 30 minutes until the beans are bubbly and the top is golden brown.  

Ashley Meyer has been cooking as long as she has been walking. The daughter of beloved former Illinois Times food columnist, Julianne Glatz, Ashley offers a fresh, inspired take on her mother’s culinary...

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