Farro, an ancient and increasingly popular whole wheat grain, offers a delightful nutty flavor and chewy texture. This versatile grain is available in three forms: whole grain, which is the most nutritious but requires longer cooking; pearled, with the bran removed for faster preparation; and semi-pearled, where the bran is partially removed.
The earthy and nutty notes of farro perfectly complement the rich, umami-packed flavor of mushrooms. Farro’s excellent liquid absorption makes it an ideal canvas for mushroom broths, ensuring every bite is infused with their distinctive taste.
For dishes requiring creaminess, such as a mushroom risotto-like tart filling, pearled farro is the preferred choice. In contrast, whole grain farro is better suited for salads and grain bowls where a more structured and chewy texture is desired.
I have a particular fondness for the intense, woodsy and nutty flavor of porcini mushrooms. My love for them even led me to book a farmhouse with a kitchen for my upcoming trip to France, specifically to prepare the beautiful porcinis I plan to purchase from local markets. On a previous trip to Paris, I took just-bought market mushrooms to a restaurant and asked them to sauté them in butter – a request that cost me the equivalent of $30.
However, fresh porcini mushrooms can be challenging to find and quite expensive in the Midwest. I often turn to a tip from New York celebrity chef Terrance Brennan: Rehydrate readily available dried porcini for their flavor and combine them with more affordable crimini mushrooms for added texture.
Mushroom farro tart
Farro has a chewier texture than Italian rice and doesn’t release starch during cooking. This means you won’t need to stir it as you would a risotto. For the best results, ensure your puff pastry is thawed but still cold. Ideally, thaw it overnight in the refrigerator. If time is limited, you can thaw it on the counter but keep a close eye on it. The goal is a pastry that’s pliable enough to roll and shape without becoming limp or causing the butter to melt. Thawing times will vary depending on the kitchen temperature, so constant supervision is essential.
Serves 4-6 as a main or 6-8 as a side.
Ingredients:
¾ cup pearled farro
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced, divided
½ pound cremini mushrooms, sliced
¼ cup dry Madeira
¼ cup whole-milk ricotta, well-drained
1 pound package all-butter puff pastry, thawed
1 egg yolk, beaten with 1 tablespoon of water and a pinch of salt
Preparation:
Soak the farro in cold water for 30 minutes. In a separate bowl, soak the dried porcini mushrooms in three cups of water for 30 minutes.
Drain the farro and discard the water. Rinse the bowl, then cover the drained farro with an inch of hot water and let it soak while you prepare other ingredients. Drain again before use.
Drain and squeeze the liquid from the porcini, reserving the soaking liquid. Strain the reserved porcini liquid through cheesecloth or a coffee filter to remove any grit, then add more water to make three cups total.
In a medium saucepan, combine the farro, the three cups of strained porcini liquid, and ¼ teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 20-30 minutes, or until the farro is tender and cooked through. Drain any excess liquid.
While the farro cooks, melt the butter with the olive oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the minced garlic and half of the sliced scallions, stirring frequently, and cook for two or three minutes. Stir in the cremini mushrooms with one teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of pepper. Cook for about five minutes, or until the mushrooms have softened.
Add the Madeira to the skillet and simmer until it has reduced and nearly boiled off.
Transfer the mushroom mixture to a bowl and stir in the cooked farro. Let it cool completely.
Stir in the ricotta and the remaining scallions. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Prepare puff pastry: While the filling cools, roll out the puff pastry. If it’s in one piece, cut it in half. On a lightly floured surface, roll each piece into an 11-inch square. Invert a sheet pan (rimmed side down) and cover it with parchment paper. Place the first pastry square on top. Cover it with another sheet of parchment, then place the second pastry square on top. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes.
Place a large baking sheet on a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees.
Carefully lift the parchment sheet with the top puff pastry square and set it aside. Spread the cooled filling evenly over the bottom puff pastry square, leaving a 1-inch border all around. Brush the border with some of the egg wash. Using the parchment, invert the second pastry square on top of the first. Lightly press the perimeter to seal the border.
Brush the top of the tart with the remaining egg wash. Crimp the border with a fork and trim it with a pizza wheel or a sharp knife. Cut a few small steam vents in the top.
Slide the tart, still on its parchment, onto the preheated baking sheet in the oven. Bake until puffed and deep golden brown, about 45 minutes.
Notes:
Both the filling and the rolled-out pastry can be prepared and chilled up to one day ahead.
The assembled tart can be chilled, uncovered, for a maximum of three hours before baking.
After a 40-year career as a dentist, Peter Glatz has embarked on a fulfilling second career, exchanging his lab coat and scalpel for a chef’s coat and knife.
This article appears in November 6-12, 2025.
