There are certain embarrassing memories from childhood that are hard to shake. Like the time my family was on vacation in Jamaica when I was 5 and the kids club at our resort hosted a fashion show. I was thrilled to wear my favorite twirly dress for the show – the kind where the skirt swirled magnificently when I spun around. However, I forgot to put on underwear. So when I did my signature spin the audience erupted into laughter at the sight of my bare booty. Decades later, I still turn crimson at the memory.
Similarly, whenever I get a whiff of pungent sauteed onion and garlic on my clothes after cooking up a batch of chili or fragrant stew, my junior high nickname, “gumbo girl,” comes roaring back to the forefront of my mind. My mother was a great fan of the late chef Paul Prudhomme, who was famous for his authentic Louisiana cuisine. She’d perfected his Cajun-style gumbo recipe which, thanks to its base of earthy, almost black roux, was unlike anything most Midwesterners had ever experienced before. The recipe became a fixture at the large parties that my parents were known for. Unfortunately for me, the cooking process also imbued every piece of fabric in our home with the pungent aroma of garlic and onion. Coats and backpacks, I learned, were especially susceptible and my 12-year-old peers were less than appreciative of the savory cloud of aroma that followed me for days.
While I haven’t worn a twirly dress since that fateful day in Jamaica, I have gotten past my aversion to gumbo. I do, however, recommend stashing coats and backpacks behind a tightly closed door and maybe cracking a window or two. My recipe is loosely adapted from one featured in the culinary classic Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen, which was published in 1984. A prime example of “slow food,” preparing a good pot of gumbo isn’t a quick endeavour. It can, however, be broken up into stages over a couple of days. Don’t be tempted to use store bought broth as it won’t contribute the same richness or depth of flavor.
Chicken and smoked sausage gumbo
Ingredients:
1 roasted chicken (store-bought rotisserie chicken works)
2 bay leaves
1 cup each chopped onion, green bell pepper and celery
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
¾ cup vegetable oil with a high smoke point such as canola or avocado (not olive oil)
1 tablespoon minced garlic
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon each garlic and onion powder
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper, to taste
2 cups sliced okra (frozen works fine)
½ pound smoked sausage, preferably andouille, or kielbasa, cut into ½-inch cubes
Hot cooked rice to serve
First, make the broth. Pull the meat off the roasted chicken, reserving the bones, and chop it into ½-inch pieces. Place it in a covered bowl and refrigerate. For extra flavor, place the bones in a roasting pan and roast in a 425-degree oven until golden brown and crispy, about 30 minutes. Add the roasted chicken bones and any fond (the crusty browned bits in the bottom of the pan) and bay leaf to a large stockpot and cover with 10 cups of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to a bare simmer and cook for three to eight hours. This can also be done in a slow cooker overnight. When the broth is done, strain it into a six-quart Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed saucepan. Don’t use a thin pan, otherwise the gumbo will scorch on the bottom. Keep the stock warm on a back burner while you prepare the remaining ingredients.
Now make the roux. Have the chopped onion, pepper and celery in a small bowl sitting ready next to the stove. Add the 3/4 cup oil to a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Using a long-handled metal whisk, gradually stir in the 3/4 cup of flour. Cook, whisking constantly, until the roux is a dark mahogany color. The color change from tan to burnt happens fast, so watch closely. Be very careful not to splash the hot roux on your skin. There’s a reason it’s colloquially known as “Cajun napalm.” As soon as the roux reaches the desired color, turn off the heat and add the chopped vegetables, stirring constantly until the roux stops getting darker. Turn the heat back to medium and continue cooking until the vegetables are soft, about five minutes more. Add the minced garlic, salt, garlic and onion powder and cayenne and stir well, making sure to scrape up any crusty bits from the bottom of the pan. Remove the pan from the heat.
To finish the gumbo, bring the broth to a boil, then add the roux-vegetable mixture one spoonful at a time, whisking thoroughly to dissolve the roux in between each addition. Add the okra and return to a boil while continually stirring & scraping the bottom of the pan. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes, occasionally stirring/scraping the bottom of the pan. This is especially important toward the end of cooking time to prevent scorching. Add the diced sausage and chicken and adjust the seasoning as needed. The gumbo can be served immediately over a mound of hot rice, however, like most stews it’s better the next day after the flavors have had an opportunity to meld.
This article appears in The state of the state.
