Chestnut or potato wonton ravioli

My neighbor, Gordon Longhta, generously gives us chestnuts from his
trees each year; this is my favorite way to use them. If you can’t get
chestnuts, baking potato makes a good substitute.

For the filling:

• 2 oz. pancetta or lightly smoked bacon, finely chopped
• 1/4 c. finely chopped onion
• 1 tsp. minced garlic
• 1 c. roasted, shelled, skinned and coarsely chopped chestnuts, or substitute lightly mashed baked russet potato
• 1/4 c. water
• 1 large Granny Smith or other tart apple,1/2 peeled and the other left unpeeled for garnish
• 1 T. cider vinegar
• 1/4 c. freshly grated Parmagiano Reggiano cheese, plus additional for serving
• 1 T. minced flat leaf parsley
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the sauce

• 9 T. unsalted butter
• 1 1/2 T. thinly sliced fresh sage leaves
• 3 T. minced onions, NOT super-sweet
• 1/2 c. reserved pasta cooking water
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

In
a medium skillet, cook the pancetta or bacon, stirring frequently,
until it is crisp and browned. Add the onion and cook until it is
softened, 3-5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook a minute or two longer.
Add the chestnuts and water, cover the skillet and let simmer for 5
minutes. Uncover the pan and continue to cook until the liquid is
reduced by half. Eliminate this step (and the water) if using potato.

Put the mixture in a bowl and mash the ingredients to a coarse purée. Stir in the potato if using.

Core
the peeled apple half and finely dice enough to measure 1/4 c. When the
chestnut mixture is completely cooled, add the apple and cheese to it.
Core the unpeeled apple half, and cut into thin matchsticks. Place in a
bowl and toss with the vinegar. Set aside for garnish.

To finish the dish:     

While
the ravioli are cooking, heat the butter in a large skillet over medium
high heat until it starts to brown. Add the sage and onion or shallot
and cook until the sage is crisp, the onion is softened, and the butter
is golden brown.

Add about 1/2 c. of the cooking liquid to the
skillet, stir to combine, and gently add the ravioli. Cook for about 2
minutes, or until the ravioli are thoroughly cooked through and have
absorbed some of the sauce. Add a little more cooking liquid if
necessary. Season to taste.

Serve immediately, garnished with the reserved apple matchsticks. Pass additional cheese. Makes approximately 24 ravioli.

To
roast chestnuts: Soak chestnuts in hot tap water for 1 hr. Cut an X in
their flat sides and roast on a baking sheet in a single layer for 30
minutes in a 350 degrees oven.

This article appears in Apr 7-13, 2011.