Growing up in the Midwest, I had to attend many potlucks. These communal gatherings often featured dishes that, to modern tastes, seem pretty bewildering.
My mother, by her own admission a poor cook, regularly contributed a solid block of Philadelphia cream cheese, generously blanketed with Sau-See Shrimp Cocktail – tiny shrimp swimming in a bland, ketchup-based sauce which was sold in small, fluted juice glasses, relics of which remarkably still reside in my basement as silent testaments to potlucks past. Other relatives, considered good cooks, had their own signature dishes. My grandmother Irene’s signature dish, which my parents insisted I try at least one bite of, was a molded vegetable salad made with lemon and lime Jell-O, chopped celery, grated carrots and chopped pimento-stuffed olives, topped with a dollop of Miracle Whip. Aunt Gladys was known for her Pineapple Fluff, a peculiar blend of canned pineapple, pineapple Jell-O, Cool Whip, miniature marshmallows and an incongruous scattering of chopped nuts. Aunt June usually brought her three-bean salad, a lackluster affair that cemented my aversion to canned legumes. It featured kidney beans, alongside mushy green and wax beans, stripped of their flavor and texture by the canning process. These poor beans were drowned in an excessive amount of Good Seasons Italian dressing, a pre-packaged vinaigrette made even sweeter by a liberal addition of granulated sugar, creating a cloying sweetness that pervaded the entire dish.
The COVID-19 pandemic caught me at the beginning of a cross-country move to a new job as a cook at a resort. With my destination on shutdown, I had no choice but to live in my converted school bus until the pandemic ended and restaurants reopened. Without an air conditioner, temperatures in the bus frequently exceeded 100 degrees, and cooking on the stove would make it even hotter. I was forced to rethink my relationship with canned beans, and they became one of my most reliable pantry staples. Few other products offer such a head start in creating a quick meal that tastes as if it has been cooked slowly, carefully and thoughtfully from raw ingredients.
There are many kinds of canned beans to choose from, but my favorite is the cannellini. These beans are a staple in the Mediterranean diet despite being native to Argentina. Cannellini beans retain their shape and texture well, making them perfect for use in salads.
When buying beans in cans, look for those marked “BPA-free.” Traditionally, cans have been lined with plastic containing bisphenol A, which some research has linked to fertility problems, heart disease, male impotence and other conditions.
For the best flavor, warm the beans on the stovetop or in the microwave and add the dressing while they are still warm. Allow to cool before adding the other ingredients.
Tonno e fagioli – tuna and cannellini bean salad
This tuna and cannellini bean salad is an excellent choice for a light meal on a warm day or a satisfying lunch throughout the year. It boasts a rich Mediterranean flavor profile, packed with protein from canned tuna and cannellini beans. The sharp red onion and briny capers pair nicely with the savory vinaigrette.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients for the dressing:
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons water
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons dried Greek oregano
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
Ingredients for the salad:
2 (15-ounce) cans of no-salt-added cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 medium red onion, cut into 1/8-inch thick slices
2 cans of tuna packed in oil, drained and oil reserved (see note below)
1 tablespoon drained capers
¼ cup chopped parsley
1 head of radicchio for serving (optional)
Note:
Canned tuna varies widely in quality. Buy the best quality you can find and afford. My favorite is a Spanish brand – Ortiz White Tuna in Olive Oil. It is locally available at Robert’s Seafood Market.
Preparation:
Make the dressing: In a small bowl or jar with a lid, combine the garlic, mustard, water, red wine vinegar, dried oregano, and olive oil (including the oil remaining in the tuna can). Whisk or shake the jar until the ingredients are emulsified. Taste for acidity and adjust with more red wine vinegar if needed. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
In a microwave-safe bowl, add the beans and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon of salt. Cover the bowl with a plate and microwave on high for three minutes.
While the beans are still hot, add the dressing and red onion slices and gently toss.
When the beans have cooled, gently fold in the tuna, capers and parsley.
If using the radicchio, separate the outer leaves into “cups” and fill with the salad.
Serve at room temperature. Leftovers will keep for a week in a sealed container in the refrigerator.
Fassolia piaz – Greek bean salad
This salad is traditionally made with gigantes or giant beans. I substituted the smaller, but easier to find, cannellini beans.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients for the dressing:
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Juice and zest of one lemon
1 large garlic clove, minced
2 teaspoons dried Greek oregano
½ teaspoon pepper flakes
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
Red wine vinegar, to taste
Ingredients for the salad:
2 (15-ounce) cans of cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
1 medium red onion, cut into a large dice
1 red bell pepper, cut into a large dice
1 seedless cucumber, cut in half lengthwise and then sliced crosswise into half-moons
2 cups of cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed
½ cup crumbled feta, divided
6-8 pickled pepperoncini peppers
½ cup pitted Kalamata olives
4 scallions, thinly sliced
¼ cup parsley, chopped
Preparation:
Make the dressing: In a small bowl or jar with a lid, combine the mustard, lemon juice and zest, garlic, dried oregano and olive oil. Whisk or shake until emulsified. Taste for acidity and add red wine vinegar as needed. Season to taste with salt and pepper
In a microwave-safe bowl, add the beans and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon of salt. Cover bowl with a plate and microwave on high for 3 minutes.
While the beans are still hot, add the dressing and red onion slices and gently toss.
When the beans have cooled, add the bell pepper, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, capers and half the feta.
Transfer to a serving bowl. Arrange the pickled peppers around the circumference of the bowl. Top with the olives, scallions, parsley and remaining feta.
This article appears in Jul 10-16, 2025.
