The scent of autumn is in the air, distinctly spicy from the freshly fallen leaves and ripening wildflowers baking in the afternoon sun. As the season shifts from summer to fall, so do our choice of beverages, away from icy cold glasses of crisp rose in the shade to a cozy tipple by the fire. This season, consider adding fortified wines like port, sherry and Madeira to your autumn drinks list. An ideal match to the sweet-spicy aromas of fall, fortified wines are rich, warming and offer an array of complementary flavors from dried fruit and nuts to caramel and toffee.
For centuries, fortified wines dominated the global wine trade and their history is closely intertwined with maritime shipping and the trade wars of the 16th and 17th centuries. Wine is a perishable product and spoils easily when exposed to heat or oxygen. It was discovered that the addition of distilled spirits like brandy protected the wine from turning during its long sea voyage, and in many cases even improved the quality of the wine over time. The timing of this discovery coincided with the signing of the Methuen Treaty in 1703, which guaranteed that portuguese wines were taxed at a lower rate in England than those of any other country. As a result, the powerful red wines from portugal’s Douro Valley surged in popularity among the English aristocracy. During that time, a number of port shipping companies were established, including Taylor’s and Kopke, many of which are still thriving today. sherry peaked in popularity in the late 1800s, cresting after centuries of prosperous commerce stemming from free trade agreements between England, France and Spain in the 1500s. Eventually, large volumes of sherry began to be shipped to America following Christopher Columbus’ arrival there from his base in Andalusía.
Once at the forefront of the market, fortified wines have fallen out of favor in recent decades. However, what’s old will always be new again and these classic wine styles have begun to experience a quiet resurgence as a new generation of curious consumers have started to seek them out. From crisp and lean Fino sherry to warm, nutty Madeira, fortified wines can please a wide range of palates and compliment an even wider array of dishes.
Sherry
Sherry is made in the region surrounding the town of Jerez in Andalusia, Spain, and comprises a range of styles from bone dry to lusciously sweet. Sherries can be either biologically aged under a layer of flor yeast, which protects the wine from oxygen, resulting in a light, crisp and dry wine, or they can be aged oxidatively, resulting in a darker, richer wine with complex aromas of coffee, roasted nuts and dried fruits.
Even those who don’t care for the distinct apple skin aroma of biologically aged sherries (known as Fino or Manzanilla) in their glass can appreciate their use in the kitchen. A mere splash of dry sherry in a pot of soup or in a pan of sauteed mushrooms has a transformative effect, adding a deeply compelling layer of savory richness to the dish. Try it in mushroom or bean soups or anytime a pan needs to be deglazed.
Recommended:
Manuel Aragón El Neto Amontillado, $35
Amontillado sherries are a blend of both biologically aged and oxidatively aged sherries. The El Neto is dry and excellent as an aperitif, paired with sushi or as an addition to your favorite soup recipe.
Port
Port is a sweet wine made from a blend of grapes in portugal’s Douro Valley. There are two types of port: Ruby and tawny. Tawny ports are matured in casks with oxygen exposure and are ready to drink upon release, offering complex flavors of nuts, toffee, and dried fruit. Ruby port is aged more in bottle than in barrel, with styles ranging from simple and affordable ruby ports with fresh, fruity flavors to vintage port, a style which is only made in the best years and requires many years of aging in the bottle. Ruby ports of all styles are a classic pairing with dark chocolate and strong cheeses such as Stilton. Tawny ports also play nicely with a variety of cheeses, as well as nutty, caramel-laced desserts.
Recommended:
Warre’s Otima 10-year tawny port, $35
Amber-hued, this Tawny port is sweet but not cloying with aromas of kirsch, toasted hazelnuts and cedar.
Madeira
A favorite of America’s founding fathers, Madeira was used to toast a number of Revolutionary milestones, including the singing of the Declaration of Independence. Named for the rocky portuguese Island on which it is made, Madeira ranges from dry to sweet and today undergoes a unique heating process after fermentation that replicates the hot, oxidative conditions that historical Madeira would have experienced while it was being shipped across the Caribbean. The heating process eventually turns the wine’s hue from golden to chestnut brown and creates flavors and aromas of dried fig and citrus peel to chocolate, caramel and nuts. Styles range from dry to sweet, and thanks to Madeira’s racy acidity, it offers incredible versatility. Pair dry, light-bodied Madeira, known as Sercial, with smoked fish, olives and fresh goat cheese. Medium-dry Madeira, the most widely available style in our market, lines up beautifully alongside cured meats and pate, where a touch of residual sugar and bright acidity cut through the richness.
Recommended:
Rare Wine Company Barbeito Historic Series New York Malmsey Madeira, $55
Opulent and rich with layered aromas of dried apricots, chocolate, fresh tobacco and just a touch of sweetness. Enjoy it around a crackling campfire.
