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I firmly believe that every woman should have her own
blowtorch. Men, too. Few things are more empowering than having that
blue-white tongue of flame under your control. A blowtorch is a handy thing to have in the kitchen.
It can be used to brown the top of a casserole or meringue pie. It can be
used to peel peppers: Torch them until the skin is completely blackened,
wrap them in a paper towel or bag, and let them steam for a few minutes;
the peel then easily wipes away. It can be used to glaze fruit: Sprinkle
pineapple, peaches, strawberries, and so on with brown sugar, then torch
them until the sugar bubbles. Blowtorches are most often used in the kitchen to
produce the crunchy sheet of caramelized sugar that is the crucial
component of crème brûlée. Crème
brûlée is a classic European dessert of vanilla-flavored
custard made extra special by that delectable topping.
It is found in
many countries, especially France and Spain, but lately it’s been
experiencing a surge of popularity in the U.S., frequently appearing on
restaurant menus. Crème brûlée has made its way
into home kitchens, too. At least two cookbooks are devoted solely to
classic crème brûlée and dozens of variations —
most sweet but a few savory. Crème brûlée is ideal for
entertaining because most of the work has to be done ahead of time: The
custard must be cool for the caramel crust to form; if it’s warm, the
sugar becomes syrup. The torching, on the other hand, must be done
immediately before serving, or the caramel softens. It still tastes good,
but a big part of crème brûlée’s appeal is the
contrast between the crunchy topping and luscious creamy custard —
and, as a bonus, you get to impress family and friends with your blowtorch
skills. Riding the wave of crème
brûlée’s popularity, cooking shops and catalogs are now
offer a small “kitchen” blowtorch. Its flame is wimpy and its
tiny fuel canisters empty quickly. I prefer — as do most chefs
— a regular blowtorch from the hardware store. Not only does it
perform better, but there’s also no denying that it makes a
statement.
Contact Julianne Glatz at realcuisine.jg@gmail.com.
I devised this recipe years ago as part of a
Caribbean menu, but it’s a delicious finish to almost any meal.
Serving it in the coconut halves is especially attractive, but it could
also be made in shallow ramekins.
Coconut Crème Brûlée
Two or three small coconuts 1/4 cup packed light-brown sugar 1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 cup heavy cream 1 cup canned coconut milk (unsweetened) from a well-shaken can 1 tablespoon Meyer’s rum, optional Half a vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Pinch of salt Four large egg yolks 4 to 6 tablespoons sugar
Check the coconuts for freshness by shaking them. You
should hear liquid sloshing inside. Crack the coconuts by tapping them
around their perimeter with a cleaver or the thick end of a heavy knife.
This is not a
job for your best knives. Rotate the coconut as you tap over a towel to
catch the liquid. When the coconut is cracked, discard the liquid, and
finish halving it. Blot the inside moisture with paper towels or a
lint-free dishcloth. Put the coconuts in the freezer or refrigerator. In a medium heavy-bottomed nonreactive pan, mix the
brown sugar and cornstarch together well. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla
bean and mix them in (extract should be added later). Whisk in the heavy
cream, coconut milk, rum, and salt and bring the mixture to a boil over
medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, for about five minutes, or until
the mixture has thickened. Put the egg yolks in a blender or food processor.
Process until the yolks are blended, then slowly add the cream mixture in a
thin stream. Pour the mixture back into the pan, reduce the heat to very
low, and return the pan to the stove. Continue to cook, whisking
constantly, until the mixture is thickened and smooth, heavily coats a
spoon, and bubbles are just starting to form. Do not let the mixture boil, or it will
curdle. Remove the pan from the heat, then add the vanilla extract, if you
are using it, and continue stirring for a few minutes until the radiant
heat from the pan has died down. Cool the contents to room temperature.
Remove the coconut halves from the refrigerator and
prop them upright by placing them in large muffin pans or small bowls or by
forming a foil collar around them. Divide the custard among the coconuts
and rap them on the counter to smooth the tops. Refrigerate the coconuts,
covered with plastic wrap, for several hours, until the custard has become
firm. The shells may be prepared three or four days ahead. Just before serving, remove the custards from the
refrigerator. Sprinkle them evenly with the sugar — about a
tablespoon each. Using a blowtorch in a slow circular motion, heat the
sugar until it caramelizes and forms a hard crust. This may also be done
under a broiler — be sure to check as the custards brown and rotate
them if necessary. Serve immediately. Stabilize the coconuts in bowls of
crushed ice, pebbles, or tiny shells or with the use of foil collars hidden
under flowers. Serves four to six.
This article appears in Jun 12-18, 2008.
