Waking up to realize you forgot to close up the chicken coop is rough. I got distracted on my way out to the coop one night back in early November and inadvertently left the door open to a gang of marauding raccoons. We lost about a quarter of our flock in a flurry of feathers that evening just weeks before winter solstice. The egg output of any flock naturally decreases as winter days get shorter and that reality, coupled with the loss from the raccoon massacre, meant that by Christmas we were getting just an egg or two per day. Enough for breakfast maybe, but definitely not enough for holiday baking. So, just as egg prices across the country began to spike, I found myself buying expensive store eggs just like everyone else.
Normally I seek out egg-heavy recipes to use up our abundant supply. But thanks to this confluence of unfortunate events, I’ve begun looking for recipes that use fewer, if any, eggs. I had some recipes that I knew would work well, like the vegan double chocolate banana bread that was a staple when I worked as a personal chef. Intensely chocolatey with a moist, well-structured crumb, this recipe works well as a loaf, cupcake or even a simple birthday cake.
There were a few surprises though. I was pleased with how easily my standard Saturday morning pancake recipe could be adjusted with no eggs, but what truly blew my mind was the vegan meringue. I’d heard of this preparation before, but since I’d always had a bevy of fresh eggs at my disposal I’d never felt compelled to try it. Now that I know, I don’t think I’ll ever look at a can of chickpeas the same way again.
Aquafaba is the starchy water leftover from cooking beans. Like egg whites, this protein-rich liquid contains albumins and globulins, the same proteins in eggs that make them so versatile in cooking and baking. It can be whipped into a meringue using essentially the same techniques that one would use when making an egg meringue. The aquafaba should be room temperature to facilitate emulsification. Adding cream of tartar lowers the solution’s pH, resulting in a more stable meringue with less browning because acid inhibits caramelization. Finally, sprinkle in the sugar slowly so that it can dissolve slowly and create a silky texture.
After less than a minute in my stand mixture the aquafaba was white and foamy and in just more than 10 minutes it had transformed into a glossy cloud. I was concerned during its first few minutes in the mixer; the beany aroma was a tad overwhelming and the thought of legume-flavored meringues wasn’t terribly appealing. However, once the mixture was fully whipped and I’d added a splash of liqueur, the flavor was almost indistinguishable from standard egg meringue.
With the liquid from just one can of chickpeas I was able to make over two dozen little heart-shaped meringues, perfect for serving with a scoop of ice cream and a sprinkle of fresh berries. I can’t decide what’s more shocking – the wacky science behind such a confection or the fact that I’ve been pouring this perfectly useful product down the drain for decades?
Double chocolate banana bread
Ingredients:
2 cups very ripe mashed bananas
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1/3 cup olive oil
¾ cup maple syrup or dark corn syrup
2 cups all-purpose or whole wheat flour
½ cup plus two tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon instant espresso powder, optional
1 teaspoon each baking powder, baking soda and salt
1 cup chocolate chips and/or chopped toasted nuts
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Mix together the liquid ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Combine the dry ingredients in another bowl and whisk well to combine, then add dry ingredients to the bowl liquid ingredients. Stir gently until just combined. Do not overmix. Then transfer into the prepared loaf pan. Bake in the middle of a preheated oven for 55 minutes. The loaf is done when a skewer inserted into the middle of the loaf comes out with just a few crumbs, (It won’t be completely clean, but it shouldn’t be covered in batter.) Allow to cool completely before cutting. Store in the fridge for up to five days or freeze.
Eggless pancakes
Ingredients:
2 cups all-purpose or whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 cups full-fat plain or vanilla yogurt
½-¾ cup milk
1 tablespoon melted butter, plus more for griddle
Combine the dry ingredients in a mixing bowl. Add the yogurt, milk and melted butter and stir gently until just combined. Add additional milk as needed to achieve the desired consistency. Heat a griddle to medium high. Pour ⅓ cup portions of batter onto the greased griddle, taking care not to crowd the pancakes. Cook until small bubbles form on the surface of the pancake, about two minutes, then flip gently and cook two minutes more.
Aquafaba meringues
Ingredients:
The drained liquid from a 15-ounce can of beans (You should have a little over a half cup.)
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
⅔ cup sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla or liqueur of choice
Preheat the oven to 250 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment. Add the aquafaba and cream of tartar to the bowl of a stand mixer. Start the mixture on medium-low heat and beat until it becomes light and foamy. Slowly sprinkle in the sugar one tablespoon at a time, increasing the speed over time to high. Beat on high until the meringue is glossy and holds stiff peaks. Add the vanilla or liqueur and whip to incorporate. Pipe or dollop tablespoonfuls of meringue onto the prepared baking sheet. Bake in the preheated 250-degree oven for one hour and 15 minutes. Turn off the oven and allow the meringues to cool completely in the oven. Store in an airtight container for up to five days. They are excellent served with whipped cream and berries.”
This article appears in The Wedding Issue 2025.
