It’s birthday season in our household. Three of us have January birthdays, including my grandmother, who will celebrate her 92nd birthday this year. Our family matriarch loves all things lemon so this year I’m planning to make her favorite, mile-high lemon meringue pie. The recipe for this uniquely American pie was developed in Philadelphia in the early 19th century by a female baker and entrepreneur named Elizabeth Goodfellow. A proprietor of one of the country’s first cooking schools, Goodfellow herself never published her recipes, or “receipts” as they were known then, but they were documented by many of her students.
Lemons were a delicacy when Goodfellow created that first lemon meringue pie, and even in my grandmother’s youth any fresh produce in winter was a precious commodity. Many recipes, like this one, were developed to maximize both flavor and frugality. Modern cooks are also able to enjoy an ever-widening array of delicious citrus. In addition to sunny-hued Lisbon lemons, the standard variety available in most stores, Meyer lemons can also be found often as well. Not technically a true lemon, Meyer lemons are a hybrid, created by crossing citron and mandarins and were named after Frank Meyer, the USDA employee who initially brought them to the U.S. from China in 1908.
These wonderfully aromatic lemons are deeper hued and thinner skinned than other lemon varieties, with sweeter flesh than a standard lemon. Thinner skin makes them more perishable, so be sure to store them in the refrigerator to extend their shelf life. Allow them to come to room temperature before juicing as this increases their yield of juice, either by leaving them out on the counter for several hours or zapping them for 10 to 15 seconds in the microwave.
In addition to adding nuanced flavor to classic recipes, Meyer lemons produce incredible lemon curd and even have a home in savory dishes. Brighten up a winter salad with a subtly sweet vinaigrette, delicious over a bed of wintery mixed greens, or shingle thin slices of Meyer lemon on top of simply seasoned salmon fillets before quickly roasting in a hot oven.
Meyer lemon meringue pie
For the filling:
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/3 cup each cornstarch and flour
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups water
1/2 cup Meyer lemon juice (or use a combination of lemon, lime and orange juice)
4 egg yolks
2 tablespoons grated Meyer lemon zest
4 tablespoons unsalted butter (if using salted butter omit ⅛ teaspoon salt, above)
For the meringue:
4 egg whites
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
6 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon citrus liqueur, such as limoncello or vanilla
A pinch of salt
1 cup marshmallow spread
1 9-inch pie shell, baked and cooled
First make the filling by combining the sugar, cornstarch, salt and juices in a saucepan and cook over medium heat until the mixture thickens and boils for about 10 minutes. Have the egg yolks ready in a separate medium-sized mixing bowl. Remove from the heat and beat a large spoonful of the hot mixture into the egg yolks to temper them, whisking vigorously, until thoroughly blended. Stir the tempered egg mixture back to the saucepan with hot sugar mixture and return to the heat and continue to cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick and smooth, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the zest then whisk in the butter one piece at a time. Pour the lemon mixture into the baked pie shell and rub a piece of butter over the top of the filling to prevent it from forming a skin, then cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least three hours before topping with the meringue.
When ready to make the meringue, preheat the oven to 400 degrees with the oven rack in the lowest position.
Beat the egg whites and the cream of tartar by hand or in a stand mixer with a whisk attachment until frothy. Gradually add the sugar one tablespoon at a time. Be sure to add the sugar slowly to allow it to blend in completely. This will prevent your meringue from weeping and allow it to cut cleanly. Add the salt and liqueur or vanilla and continue beating until the meringue is stiff and glossy. Beat in the marshmallow cream.
Remove the pie from the fridge and dollop the meringue topping onto the pie filling, being careful to seal the meringue to the edge of the crust to protect the filling. Swirl the meringue with a spatula to form peaks. Bake for 10 minutes until the meringue is golden brown. Let cool for at least three hours at room temperature before serving. Do not refrigerate as this may cause this meringue to fall.
This article appears in A critical loss for District 186.
