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Stock photo of dry rub seasoned pork ribs.

A well-made marinade makes all the difference when grilling and can transform an otherwise lackluster meal into a stellar spread. Marinades and dry rubs perform two main functions to achieve this, first by allowing salt to penetrate thoroughly and evenly, resulting in a juicy, well-seasoned dish. Second, the acids and enzymes in many marinades can tenderize tough cuts of meat and reduce the amount of cooking time required to achieve a fork tender bite. However, cooks must be mindful of the type and concentration of acids used, as over-marinating in a highly acidic solution can adversely affect texture and cause meat to turn mushy. 

In general, a good marinade consists of liquid, salt, sugar, aromatics, fat and acids. The liquid can be either in the form of wine, beer, juice, yogurt, soy sauce or even just water. Salt is critical not just for seasoning the meat, but also for keeping it juicy after cooking. This is because salt partially dissolves some of the muscle proteins in meat, effectively reducing the amount the muscle can contract while cooking. Less contraction means the meat can retain more moisture, making for a more tender, juicy finished dish. Sugar, whether from good old granulated, brown sugar or in the form of honey, maple syrup or fruit juice, seasons the outside of the meat and aids browning. Aromatics such as garlic or onion are essential. I often include an entire onion in my marinades, whirred into a liquid slurry in my blender along with garlic or other herbs and spices as I see fit. 

Fat is a major conduit of flavor – it simply makes everything taste better. It also aids in heat conduction and helps with even cooking and browning. Finally, in addition to adding bright flavor, acids can affect the texture of meat by denaturing proteins. Different types and concentrations of acids, as well as the length of marinating time, can have widely different effects on texture. Of the three main types of acids found in the home kitchen, lactic acid is the mildest, making it a fabulous option for including in a long overnight or even two-three-day marinade. Citric acid, sourced from citrus juice, has a slightly more pronounced effect on texture and is well suited for shorter marinades of a few hours. Acetic acid, found in vinegar, has the strongest effect, and if used in too high a concentration or marinated too long can result in an undesirable texture. 

Dry rubs are another method of infusing flavor into meat. A combination of salt, sugar, garlic and onion powder and spices is rubbed into meat before cooking and allowed to rest anywhere between 30 minutes to overnight. This is a great option when you’re looking to maximize char and caramelization since they don’t add any additional moisture to the mix. The most basic dry rub starts with just equal parts salt, sugar and pepper, but can easily be enhanced with a range of flavors from homey garlic and onion powder to richly spiced curry powders.  

All-purpose barbecue dry rub

Ingredients:

¼ cup each kosher salt, brown sugar, smoked or regular paprika and finely ground black pepper 

2 tablespoons each dry mustard, cumin, coriander, garlic powder and onion powder 

1 teaspoon cayenne (to taste)

Mix well and store in an airtight container in a cool, dark spot.  

Buttermilk herb marinade

Delicious with chicken or pork

Ingredients:

2 cups buttermilk or full-fat, plain yogurt (not Greek-style) 

¼ cup minced fresh sage, thyme, rosemary or parsley, or a combination 

1 onion, roughly chopped

3-4 cloves garlic 

2 tablespoons kosher salt 

1 tablespoon honey, maple syrup or brown sugar 

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 

2 bay leaves 

Combine the above ingredients and puree in a blender until smooth. Pour over chicken or pork in a bowl or zip-top plastic bag and marinade overnight or up to three days. Roast, grill or sous vide as desired. 

Sookyung’s bulgolgi beef

When I asked my dear friend Sookyung Suh for the recipe for her mouthwatering bulgogi beef, I was shocked to learn that my health-conscious friend’s traditional Korean recipe called for soda! “It’s perfect for tenderizing tough cuts like flank or skirt steak,” Suh explained. “I’ll often make a big batch of marinated meat to keep in the freezer in zip-top bags. I also like to add sliced onions or oyster mushrooms when I cook the beef.”

For the meat:

1 lb of flank steak or top sirloin, sliced paper thin (shabu-shabu cut)

For the marinade:

2 tablespoons of brown sugar

4 tablespoons soy sauce

6 tablespoons dark soda (such as cola or root beer) 

2 teaspoons of minced garlic

¼ cup of sliced green onions

1 tablespoon of sesame oil

1 teaspoon of freshly grated ginger (optional)

In a bowl, combine all the marinade ingredients. Add the meat and marinade for two to three hours. Cook on a grill pan until it is done. Eat with rice and red lettuce like a lettuce wrap.

Ashley Meyer has been cooking as long as she has been walking. The daughter of beloved former Illinois Times food columnist, Julianne Glatz, Ashley offers a fresh, inspired take on her mother’s culinary...

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