Does your typical noontime meal consist of a burger grabbed from a drive-thru
window or a boring sandwich eaten at your desk? If so, it’s time to try one
of the many great places around town. Here are three of my favorites:
Bentoh’s is at the top of my list for lunch, for several reasons: I
can satisfy my craving for sushi; the salads are wonderful; and the food is
fresh. The menu offers Thai, Japanese, and seafood dishes, as well as bento
(a Japanese lunch featuring steamed rice, vegetables, and meat).
It’s hard to pick a favorite here. The sautéed crab cakes are plump and tasty,
and the spring rolls — a great vegetarian choice — are healthy. I’ve tried all
of the sushi rolls: California, shrimp tempura, salmon-leek tempura, vegetable
maki, and tuna. All are excellent, but I especially like the California
rolls because the crabmeat is fresh and not that orange imitation stuff. This
roll comprises crunchy bits of avocado, cucumber, and carrots, wrapped in nori
and sushi rice and topped with roasted sesame seeds.
As noted earlier, the salads are fantastic. I usually order the house salad
with salmon. A huge plateful of spring-mix greens, English cucumber, Roma tomatoes,
red peppers, blue-cheese crumbles, and candied ramen noodles is dressed with
the house Asian vinaigrette and sweet, crispy wonton skins, then topped with
two large slices of grilled salmon. This salad is large enough to be shared
by two and costs just $6.75. You can also order it with steak or chicken.
I always feel as if I’m eating in a much larger metropolis when I lunch at
Bentoh’s. The restaurant is tiny but inviting, with yellow walls, five black
tables and chairs, a counter at which to place your order, and a wall of windows
overlooking Fifth Street. It’s the kind of place people are amazed to find in
downtown Springfield.
A tip: Some items, such as sushi rolls, often sell out, so call ahead to reserve
favorites if you’re planning on a late lunch.
Bentoh’s is located at 213 S. Fifth St., 544-6972. Lunch hours are 11 a.m.-2
p.m. Delivery is available.
The Morning Star Mercantile and Café is a great place for a
quiet midday retreat. Located on Main Street in sleepy Salisbury, 12 miles north
of Springfield, it’s a study in contrasts. The menu is similar to what you would
find at a tearoom, featuring chicken crêpes, olive-nut-spread sandwiches, soups,
and lots of delicious desserts. But the setting is a large, rustic building
constructed from salvaged barn timbers that might look at home in the Ozarks.
It definitely blends in with nearby New Salem; even the massive stone fireplace
was patterned after those found in the log-cabin homes at the historical site.
My favorite place to dine is outside on the large, welcoming porch, which
is decorated with antiques and hanging plants. It’s a relaxing, shady spot.
The restaurant features an equally inviting back porch that overlooks a small
garden.
The menu stays the same year-round. Popular choices include cashew-chicken
salad on a croissant, olive-nut spread, and smoked turkey. The special broccoli
salad is delicious. For dessert, you can choose from homemade apple-nut dessert,
carrot cake, apple-walnut pie with caramel sauce, fruit pies, and a hot-fudge
brownie sundae.
Another plus: The Morning Star is next door to Colin Folk Art and the Garden
Path garden center. What could be better than combining lunch on a country porch
with shopping?
The Morning Star Mercantile and Cafe is located at 6141 Main St., Salisbury,
626-2022. Hours are 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Tue.-Sat. Lunch is served 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Drinks, baked goods, and ice cream are served throughout the day.
Soirée Bistro is an elegant dining experience. The food
is consistently good, and the ambiance is a refreshing change of pace from the
many chain restaurants dotting the Springfield’s west side. I love the atmosphere:
rich gold walls, large expanse of windows, weathered-pine floor, black furniture
and wainscoting. Panels of red velvet are draped across the soaring teal ceiling.
Try a bowl of lump-crab-and-corn chowder, a divine blend of rich, creamy corn
and fresh crabmeat. Salads include one with grilled chicken breast, mixed greens,
sweet mustard-bacon vinaigrette, fresh fruit, candied cayenne pecans, and blue
cheese. My favorite sandwich is the shrimp BLT, a delicious combination of blackened
shrimp, roasted poblano remoulade, applewood-smoked bacon, lettuce, and tomatoes
on a toasted baguette. The spicy shrimp gives the sandwich an unexpected kick.
The sandwich can also be ordered with smoked salmon, which is saltier but just
as delicious. Both variations are served with chunky sweet-potato salad.
Soirée Bistro is located in the Gables at 2824 Plaza Dr., 546-4660. Lunch
is served from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Sun .
Pie to die for
Morel pie is now on the menu at Maldaner’s. This springtime dish is a popular
item at the downtown restaurant and loyal customers have been anxiously awaiting
the seasonal delicacy. Chef Michael Higgins prepares the dish with locally grown
morels, complying with new Illinois Department of Public Health rules for handling
wild mushrooms. Here’s his recipe:
Morel pie
Ingredients
1 pre-baked pie shell brushed with Dijon mustard and sprinkled with grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/4 lb. butter
1 Vidalia or another type of sweet spring onion, julienne
1/2 lb. cleaned morels (or more if you want)
1/2 tsp. thyme
1 cup grated Parmigiano
2 cup cream
2 whole eggs lightly beaten
salt and pepper
1 cup cracker crumbs
Directions: Line the pie shell with foil, weight with dry beans, and pre-bake
shell at 350°F until edges are light brown. Remove foil and beans and brush
crust with mustard, sprinkle with cheese and put back in oven until cheese just
melts.
Melt butter in large sauté pan, add onions, and cook until onions are soft
on low to medium heat. Add morels and cook until soft and half the juice is
reduced. Add thyme, cream, and cheese. Bring to a simmer, then slowly add egg
mixture. Salt and pepper to taste.
Pour mixture into pie shell top with cracker crumbs and bake at 350°F until
top is brown and custard is set. Let cool, cut into 6 pieces and serve with
a salad or fresh asparagus.
Maldaner’s, 222 S. Sixth St., 217-522-4313
This article appears in Apr 29 – May 5, 2004.
