Preserving food was vital for survival before modern refrigeration, especially for milk, which was plentiful in the summer but scarce in winter. About 8,000 years ago, a method was devised to ensure milk could be stored for the cold season: it was curdled using either acid or rennet, and the resulting curds were then preserved with salt. This process relied on both salt and microbes to prevent spoilage.
Tvorog, also known as quark or farmer’s cheese, is a type of preserved dairy product from the countries that once made up the Soviet Union. It is made by naturally fermenting and curdling cow’s milk, then draining the whey in suspended bags. This process imparts a distinctly tangier flavor compared to similar-textured cottage cheese. This curd cheese is a staple in sweet and savory Eastern European dishes. The most common use for this versatile fresh cheese is as the main ingredient in the popular pancake-like dish, syrniki.
Syrniki (“SEER-nee-kee”) are essentially pan-fried cheese fritters or pancakes. The origin of the name is the Old Slavic word for cheese, syr. A key difference between syrniki and American pancakes lies in their structure. Syrniki rely almost entirely on curd cheese, whereas American pancakes depend heavily on flour and leavening agents for their characteristic fluffiness.
Locally-made tvorog is available from Prairie Fruits Farm and Creamery in Champaign and is sold as “Ukrainian Farmer’s Cheese.” It is made from cow’s milk, despite the farm’s focus on goats. Using cow’s milk ensures a consistent, year-round supply for the creamery. Goat milk production is seasonal, mirroring the animals’ synchronized lactation cycle: they are bred in the fall, “go dry” (stop producing milk) in the winter and restart production in the spring with the birth of their kids.
To maintain a steady supply, Prairie Fruits partners with Kilgus Farmstead in Fairbury for its high-quality cow’s milk. The Kilgus Farmstead Jersey herd is seasonally pastured, yielding rich, golden milk. Even in winter, the cows maintain steady production with a reliable diet of the farm’s non-GMO corn silage, alfalfa and grass hay, plus access to grazing and comfortable bedding. This partnership is crucial for keeping the creamery operational during the goat’s “off-season.”
Traditional syrniki have a dense, fried-cheesecake texture because they are made mainly with tvorog and very little flour, held together with egg. They are quite easy to make if you follow some basic principles:
1. The consistency of syrniki batter depends on the moisture level of the farmer’s cheese, as only a small amount of flour is used. It is essential that the cheese is neither too dry nor excessively runny, as this will prevent the pancakes from holding their shape. If the farmer’s cheese seems too dry, incorporate a small amount of heavy cream. If the farmer’s cheese is loose or runny, it needs to be drained. Line a strainer or colander with cheesecloth or a coffee filter, spread the cheese inside, and place it over a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for several hours or overnight to remove excess whey. To speed up the process, you can gently press the cheese or place a weight on top.
2. Using cold farmer’s cheese straight from the fridge will help maintain the proper shape. A slightly sticky batter is generally best for moist pancakes. Even with this sticky texture, you can easily shape the syrniki by lightly flouring your hands and handling the batter gently.
3. To achieve ideally shaped syrniki, use only the egg yolk in the dough. Incorporating the egg white will result in a mixture that is too runny.
4. To preserve the characteristic cheesy texture, use flour judiciously. Avoid overmixing the batter, as this can develop gluten and result in a tougher final product. A gluten-free flour, such as Bob’s Red Mill Gluten Free All Purpose Flour, can be substituted.
5. To ensure a perfectly cooked interior without burning, employ a gentle frying technique. Cook the syrniki in a pan over low to medium heat, covered, for about 7 minutes on each side. This method allows the syrniki to “bake” while frying, resulting in a golden-brown crust and a thoroughly cooked center.
Syrniki recipe
While traditionally accompanied by sour cream or jam, Syrniki can also be prepared as a savory dish. To make them savory, simply omit the sugar and incorporate fresh herbs like dill or chives into the mixture.
Makes about 6 pancakes
Ingredients:
1 pound full-fat farmers’ cheese
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
2 egg yolks, room temperature
Zest of one lemon
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup all-purpose flour plus extra for coating the pancakes (See note below)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
Cooking oil or clarified butter for frying
Preparation:
In a medium bowl, thoroughly mix the cheese, sugar, well-beaten eggs, lemon zest and vanilla.
In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder and salt.
Gradually work the dry ingredients into the cheese mixture in the bowl until very smooth and well combined. If the mixture seems too dry, add a little heavy cream.
Chill the dough in the refrigerator for 45 to 60 minutes. Once chilled, use an ice cream scoop to portion the dough into balls, then place them on a lightly floured surface. Shape these into puck-like patties. Lightly flour both sides of each round.
Warm a non-stick skillet over medium-low heat and add about ¼-inch of oil. When the oil is hot, carefully place the syrniki in the skillet. Avoid overcrowding; fry only three or four at a time, depending on the size of your skillet.
Pan-fry, covered, until the first sides are golden brown (about seven minutes), then turn the syrniki over and cook until the second side is golden brown (about five to seven minutes more).
Plate the finished syrniki and serve immediately. They are typically served with crème fraîche or sour cream, along with your choice of favorite jams, preserves or fresh berries.
Alternatively, you can shape the patties ahead of time, lightly coat them with flour, and refrigerate or freeze them until you are ready to fry.
After a 40-year career in dentistry, Dr. Peter Glatz retired at 66 to pursue his lifelong passion of becoming a chef. This unconventional second act saw him gain professional experience over seven years in acclaimed kitchens nationwide. His journey from the precision of dentistry to the creativity of culinary arts proves that it’s never too late to reinvent oneself.
This article appears in February 5-11, 2026.
