Growing up in a middle-class Chicago suburb during the 1950s and 60s, my family’s life was comfortable, though not lavish. My father, an art school graduate, became a commission-based salesman when he realized he couldn’t support his young family as an artist. Consequently, vacations were beyond our means, and except for our weekly Saturday outing to McDonald’s, we rarely ate out. Going to a restaurant was a rare treat, reserved for special occasions.
My family’s favorite dining destination was Chicago’s Como Inn. Established in 1924, this now-closed Italian restaurant was once among the city’s largest and highest-grossing dining establishments. While its cuisine wouldn’t win awards by today’s standards, the Como Inn offered quality Italian-American fare in an environment that, to my young eyes, was the epitome of luxury. The booths featured burgundy velvet drapes that could be drawn for privacy, and a buzzer to summon the waiter – a true definition of luxury for a child.
As my palate matured, my culinary tastes shifted from simple spaghetti and meatballs to the more refined flavors of chicken Marsala. This Italian-American classic, featuring golden, pan-fried chicken cutlets bathed in a rich, savory mushroom sauce, became my favorite dish at the Como and left a lasting impression.
The distinctive flavor of this dish comes from the Marsala wine in its sauce. Marsala is a brandy-fortified wine named after a Sicilian coastal town. It has a complex flavor that is hard to describe, but the first things that pop into my head are dried fruits and caramel. These flavor components pair well with mushrooms and enhance their earthy, umami flavor. I’m not a food scientist, but I suspect that the alcohol in the wine helps to extract volatile aromatic compounds in the mushrooms, intensifying their flavor even further, similar to the role vodka plays in vodka pasta sauce.
Though the Como Inn closed in 2001, more than 50 years after I first experienced its charms, and despite having since dined and worked in numerous acclaimed restaurants, I still crave the comfort of its chicken Marsala. When my time comes, for my last supper, I’ll probably forgo foie gras, caviar and truffles in favor of something nostalgic and comforting, something associated with happy memories, such as the Como’s chicken Marsala.
Chicken Marsala
This recipe calls for less than a cup of Marsala. You’ll have plenty of wine left over, so you can use it to make zabaglione for dessert.
Ingredients:
½ cup Wondra flour (or substitute all-purpose flour)
1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs or breasts
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, divided
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
8 ounces of cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
⅔ cup dry Marsala wine
⅔ cup chicken stock
Finely chopped fresh parsley leaves, for garnish
Preparation:
Place 1/2 cup Wondra flour in a shallow bowl. Season the flour with one teaspoon of kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper.
Pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Pound the chicken to an even thickness with a meat mallet or heavy skillet. Dredge each piece of chicken in the flour, shaking off excess.
In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, heat one tablespoon of unsalted butter and one tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Sear half the chicken for 3 to 5 minutes per side until browned, then transfer to a large plate. Repeat the process with an additional tablespoon of unsalted butter and the remaining tablespoon of olive oil for the rest of the chicken, adding it to the same plate. (The chicken will not be fully cooked at this stage.)
In the same skillet, melt another tablespoon of butter. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has been released and they begin to brown (four to five minutes). Stir in the shallots and cook until translucent. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant (another minute or so).
Add ⅔ cup of Marsala, ⅔ cup chicken stock and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt. Scrape the bottom of the skillet to loosen any browned bits. Bring to a simmer.
Return the chicken and any accumulated juices to the pan in a single layer. Cook for four to five minutes, or until the sauce slightly thickens and the chicken is just cooked through.
Remove the skillet from the heat. Stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter until melted.
Transfer to a platter or dinner plates and garnish with finely chopped fresh parsley leaves.
Zabaglione
Zabaglione is a popular Italian dessert made of just three ingredients – egg yolks, sugar and Marsala. These ingredients are combined and gently whipped over a double boiler (bain-marie) to prevent scrambling and increase volume. It is the Italian cousin of the French dessert sabayon, which is usually made with champagne rather than Marsala.
Ingredients:
6 egg yolks
⅓ cup sugar
½ cup Marsala
Pinch of salt
Preparation:
In a large saucepan, bring 1 inch of water to a simmer over medium heat. Ensure the saucepan is large enough to snugly support a heatproof glass mixing bowl without the bottom of the bowl touching the simmering water. Meanwhile, in the bowl and off the heat, thoroughly whisk together egg yolks and sugar until homogenous and smooth. Whisk in the Marsala and salt until the mixture is lightly foamy.
Place the bowl over gently simmering water, using a pot holder or dry kitchen towel. Immediately and continuously whisk the mixture, using an up-and-over motion to incorporate air and reach all parts of the bowl. This prevents localized overheating and scrambling of the egg. Maintain a gentle simmer, not a boil, adjusting the heat as necessary (periodically check the water’s status by lifting the bowl). Continue whisking for approximately 5 minutes, or until the foam thickens. The exact timing may vary depending on the type of bowl and the intensity of the simmer.
Once the zabaglione thickens and the whisk leaves tracks, lift a whiskful and let it fall back into the bowl.
Count the number of seconds it takes for the mound to completely flatten out. Once it takes about eight seconds to flatten fully, the zabaglione is ready.
Remove from heat, place the bowl on a folded kitchen towel, and continue whisking until it thickens further and cools to your preferred temperature (warm or room temperature). Zabaglione can be spooned on top of cake or topped with berries.
After a 40-year career as a dentist, Peter Glatz has embarked on a fulfilling second career, exchanging his lab coat and scalpel for a chef’s coat and knife.
After a 40-year career as a dentist, Peter Glatz has embarked on a fulfilling second career, exchanging his lab coat and scalpel for a chef’s coat and knife.
This article appears in November 20-26, 2025.
