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Thirty years ago, it was Chicago’s most
romantic restaurant. Today, Geja’s Café is still a serious
contender for the title. For my husband, Peter, and I, Geja’s still
conjures up a host of happy memories because that’s where’d
we’d go several times a year to reconnect romantically when his
dental-school pressures, our new baby, and my performing schedule
overwhelmed us. Geja’s also is where we had our first fondue
experience. In fact, other than the salad and a cheese board, fondue is all
the place serves. Cheese fondues, oil fondue (meats, seafood, and
vegetables cooked by the diners in a pot of bubbling oil, then dipped in
various sauces), and dessert fondues can be had individually or as a
multicourse meal. A big part of Geja’s romantic appeal is its
location, a few steps down from street level, in a warm, inviting space
with low lights, low ceilings, and fireplaces. A classical or flamenco
guitarist plays in one corner. Not long ago a friend referred to fondue as
“retro.” In a sense, that’s true — fondue became
quite trendy in the United States during the 1960s and ’70s —
but fondue was no passing fad. Its appeal remains strong, as the mere
existence of a restaurant like Geja’s demonstrates. Few restaurants
have 30 or more years of staying power. Geja’s isn’t just
limping along, either. Recently, when asked by newlyweds for restaurant
recommendations for their Chicago Valentine’s Day weekend trip,
Geja’s was both Peter’s and my first thought. Unfortunately, no
reservations were available for two weeks before or after their trip. Dessert fondues (chocolate was the original and is
still the favorite) were created in the ’60s, but cheese and oil
fondues have a much older history. A fonduelike recipe that combined goat
cheese, wine, and flour appears in the ancient Greek scrolls of
Homer’s Iliad, but cheese fondue as it’s known today originated in
18th-century Neufchâtel, Switzerland. Eventually it was made all over
Switzerland, each region using its own local cheeses. Today’s fondues
are also made with many other kinds of cheeses, from Cheddar to Stilton. The origin of oil fondue, or fondue bourguignonne, is even older.
It was developed in Burgundy, France, by monks as a quick vineyard meal
during harvest, using cubed beef and horsemeat. Fortunately, horsemeat is
no longer included in a typical fondue bourguignonne (at least in the
U.S.), but the list of possible dipping ingredients has grown to just about
any other type of meat or vegetable that can be cut into bite-size pieces
and cooked in oil. For the calorie-conscious, a version can be made with
broth or stock in place of the oil. This has its antecedents in an ancient
Chinese dish called a hot pot. After the meats and vegetables cooked in the
broth have been eaten, noodles (and sometimes greens) are added to the pot
and the resulting soup is divided among the diners. Fondue makes for a romantic dining experience, but
it’s also a wonderful way to entertain a group. Everything can be
prepared ahead of time (except for combining the cheese and wine, which
takes only minutes) so that the hosts can relax and enjoy the party as much
as the guests. Preparation is easy, too, and, unless you choose to make
your own sauces, consists mostly of cutting the ingredients to be dipped. Fondue can also be the basis of a fun interactive
family evening, not least because the children are participating in making
their meals. It was a favorite with our kids when they were growing up,
something we did regularly on weekend nights. It’s of course
important to be careful with small children because of the flames, but the
only accident we ever had was when Peter set the candle-fueled warmer on
the mantel and a huge wreath of dried grasses caught fire. Fortunately, he
was able to quickly put it out, and the only casualty was the wreath. You don’t have to journey to Geja’s for a
fondue-restaurant experience. Z Bistro offers a scaled-down, less dramatic
(and less expensive), but still very pleasant version, Thursday-Saturday
evenings. Dessert dipping ingredients include small squares of Rice
Krispies Treats, which are something I’ve not had elsewhere but are
especially good.
Geja’s Café, 340 W. Armitage Ave.,
Chicago, 773-281-9101, www.gejascafe.com.
Z Bistro, 220 S. Sixth St., Springfield,
217-522-4049, www.zbistro.com.
Send questions and comments to Julianne Glatz at
realcuisine@insightbb.com
Good cheese is crucial for a good fondue. Although
there are some wonderful Swiss-style artisanal cheeses made in America, they’re not
usually available locally. Domestic Swiss cheeses commonly available in
grocery stores, such as baby Swiss and Alpine Lace, don’t have enough
flavor. Fortunately, genuine Swiss cheeses such as Gruyère and
Emmentaler can be found in the specialty-cheese sections of many local
groceries. I prefer using only Gruyère, rather than a combination,
when making fondue.
CLASSICSWISSCHEESEFONDUE
One clove garlic 1 1/2 cup dry white wine (A lighter, more acidic
wine, such as a Sancerre or Fumé
Blanc, is best; Chardonnay is not a good choice.) 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 pound Gruyère or Emmentaler cheese or a combination, coarsely grated 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour Salt, optional Freshly ground pepper Pinch of freshly ground nutmeg 3 tablespoons kirsch (optional)
Traditionally the garlic clove is cut, rubbed around
the interior of the fondue pot, and discarded. If you’d prefer a
slightly more garlicky fondue (as I do), mince the garlic to a paste and
add it to the pot along with the wine and lemon juice. The use of an
enameled fondue pot or other nonmetal heatproof pot, such as glass, and a
wooden or plastic spoon is absolutely essential; otherwise the fondue will
separate. Toss the grated cheese with the flour and have the
mixture at the ready Heat the wine and lemon juice over high heat and
bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and, when the wine and lemon
juice are just simmering, begin adding the cheese in handfuls, stirring to
incorporate it completely before adding the next handful. Once all the cheese has been added and the fondue is
smooth, season it to taste with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Usually the
cheese has enough salt that more isn’t needed, but occasionally a bit
is good. Add the kirsch, if you are using it, and cook a couple of minutes
longer. Place the fondue pot on its stand over a candlelit
warmer and serve. The traditional accompaniments are crusty baguettes cut
into 1-inch cubes and cubes of apple. (Traditionally each bread cube should
have at least one side of crust. Slightly stale bread works fine and is
even preferred by many. Beware of breads with soft crusts and interiors,
which can fall apart when dipped). There are many other possibilities,
among them boiled baby or fingerling potatoes, cubed ham, cooked shrimp,
sautéed cubes of steak, and cooked broccoli florets.
This article appears in Feb 7-13, 2008.
