It really shouldn’t come as a surprise, but
somehow it always does. The first seasonal local produce arrives, and the
intensity of its flavor shows us just what pale substitutes we’ve
been settling for. Don’t get me wrong: I’m glad such things
as lettuce, scallions (a.k.a. green onions), radishes, and fresh herbs are
available at grocery stores through the cold winter months. But they just
can’t begin to compare to the first spring lettuces, whose taste
seems somehow to define the color green; to tiny scallions and radishes
that carry a hint of sweetness along with their tang; and to fragrant
bundles of herbs with so much more flavor, they seem as if they should be
labeled “double-strength.” Asparagus is another example. Local asparagus has been
available for about a month and should still be around for another week to
10 days, so if you haven’t had any yet this spring, now is your last
chance until next year. Look for firm stalks with tightly closed tips. If
you’re going to refrigerate it for more than a day, trim thin slices
off the ends and stand the asparagus upright in a container with a little
water in the bottom. A field of asparagus yields stalks that vary from
pencil thin to marker thick. The flavor is the same, but it’s best to
use either all thick or all thin at one time because their cooking times
differ. Thick stalks are best for roasting or grilling. Speaking of grilling, the best of all is the
spectacular giant variety called Purple Passion. It’s easy to see how
it got its name, because you will never see a sexier vegetable! A deep
burgundy-purple that turns dark green when cooked, the largest stalks can
measure as much as an inch in diameter and a foot long, with an enormous
swollen tip. A newcomer on the gardening/produce scene, Purple Passion
isn’t an engineered hybrid — instead, it’s an entirely
new variety, discovered a few years ago growing wild. It has a slightly
higher sugar content and higher water content than regular green asparagus.
That, along with its enormous size, is what makes it perfect for grilling. Last, but certainly not least, the first luscious
local strawberries are finally here! Forget the gloppy red goo and simply
toss them with a little sugar or honey — or, if you absolutely must
gild the lily, dip them in some chocolate. All of these items, as well as vegetable, herb, and
flower plants and other items, are on sale at the Springfield
Farmers’ Market each Wednesday and Saturday. Purple Passion asparagus
is available at Suttil’s stand at the market, as well as at
Suttil’s Groth Street farm, and at the Jefferies farm stand on
Jefferies Road, just off North Route 29.
To prepare grilled asparagus: Break off the tough stem ends. Brush or toss the
asparagus with just enough melted unsalted butter, olive oil, or a
combination to coat. Grill over a medium/medium low fire, keeping the tips
away from the hottest part of the grill until just barely cooked through.
The tip of a sharp knife should pierce the thickest part easily. Grilling
time will vary, depending on the thickness of the stalks. Sprinkle with
salt and pepper.
To make chocolate-covered strawberries: Use good-quality milk-, bittersweet-, or
white-chocolate chips and unblemished strawberries with leaves attached,
washed and thoroughly dried.
Melt the chocolate in the microwave on medium to low
power (this varies according to each microwave — the defrost setting
is usually about right but is sometimes too hot) in a small, relatively
deep bowl. Grasp each strawberry by the leaves and swirl it in the
chocolate, leaving an inch or so of red at the top. Allow the excess
chocolate to drip off and place the fruit on a baking sheet covered with
parchment paper or plastic wrap. Put in a cool place or refrigerator until
the chocolate has hardened. Chocolate-covered strawberries are quite
perishable and should be eaten the same day they are made.
This article appears in Jun 1-7, 2006.
