When spring rolls around, Chef Michael Higgins thinks
of crocuses, but not the kind sprouting up in our yards, adding a purple
haze to the landscape. Rather, Higgins’ mind is on the flower that
produces saffron, the most precious and expensive spice in the world.
During a demonstration at Greenview Nursery’s
annual spring garden show, Higgins — the owner of Maldaner’s
— and assistant chef Chip Kennedy prepare several dishes using
saffron and other spring produce. As they work, they talk about the uses of
saffron and why the spice is so sought-after.
“It’s perfume-y. It brings a smell and
taste to a dish that’s very distinct,” Kennedy says. “I
like it a lot. People typically think of saffron rice, but it goes well
with a lot of things, like lamb or chicken, if you know how to use it
correctly.”
A little saffron goes a long way, and Higgins warns
people to use it sparingly. An ounce costs between $60 and $150, compared
with $7 to $13 for oregano, and if overused, the spice imparts a medicinal
flavor.
“It’s easy to overpower a dish with it.
You just want to use a pinch. If you like it and think it needs more, you
can add more,” Kennedy adds. “You don’t want to throw in
a big handful. It’s expensive, but if you’re making a paella
dish or a large dish for 50 people, you would use two big pinches, just to
perfume it. Depending on what you’re using it for, you never use much
of it.”
Higgins says that he buys saffron by the ounce for the
steamed mussels he serves this time of year. As he rubs the saffron threads
between his fingers, crumbling them over the creamy rice, he explains that
when he has time, he prefers to add the saffron to warm chicken broth to
let it “bloom” and release its essence.
Saffron, which has no substitute, is prized for its
bright orange-yellow color and intense flavor and aroma. It works well with
herbs and spices such as cilantro, cinnamon, garlic, rosemary, and thyme.
Commercial saffron is derived from the dried
bright-red stigmas of the saffron crocus (Crocus
sativus), a flower that grows in Greece, India,
Iran, and Spain, among other countries. More than 75,000 of these flowers
must be picked by hand to produce just one pound of saffron filaments.
Sue Lionberger, owner of Wild Thyme Spices, says that
she sells saffron in its whole form, by the gram. A half-gram (about the
size of a quarter) costs $4.20. The spice is sold whole to keep the saffron
pure. Like most spices and herbs, whole saffron is more powerful than the
ground variety; it must be prepared before use through soaking, toasting,
or grinding. Ground and powdered saffron are available, but it should be
purchased from a reliable shop because it may be diluted with turmeric or
other additives. Saffron threads may be crushed with the fingers or a small
mortar and pestle, then soaked in liquid such as broth, water or wine for
as long as 20 minutes before the infusion is added to a dish.
Although thyme, rosemary, and bay leaves are bigger
sellers at her spice store, Lionberger says, many customers seek out
saffron after seeing it used on television cooking shows. “We go
through quite a bit of it,” she says. “Most of my customers
primarily use it in rice dishes and Indian cuisine. I think we sell a lot
of it because it’s so hard to find. It’s kind of a bittersweet
taste — it’s hard to describe. It brings out the flavor of
whatever you’re cooking. I would recommend using it separately and
enjoying its flavor, but there are certainly spices that go well with it,
such as turmeric.”
Where to find saffron: Wild Thyme Spices, 2625 W.
White Oaks Dr., 217-698-0029; Food Fantasies, 1512 W. Wabash, 217-793-8009.
Steamed mussels
Ingredients
One medium red onion, finely chopped
Four garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoon butter
2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded
1 cup sweet red vermouth
Pinch of saffron (half-teaspoon of threads)
1 cup water
2 cups chopped ripe tomatoes (one 16-ounce can)
Four scallions, thinly sliced
Salt and pepper to taste
Directions
Sauté onion and garlic in olive oil until soft
(but not brown) for six or seven minutes, then add mussels, vermouth,
water, tomatoes and saffron. Bring the pot to a boil, then cover and steam
mussels for two minutes, until they open. Add butter and serve. Garnish
with scallions.
— Courtesy of
Maldaner’s (222 S. Sixth St., 217-522-4313)
Vegetable paella
Ingredients
One large Spanish onion, chopped
One red bell pepper, chopped
Three garlic cloves, minced
1 cup frozen artichoke hearts, thawed
2 cups tightly packed fresh spinach
1/2 cup water
2 2/3 cups vegetable broth
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/4 cup white basmati rice
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads
1 cup frozen lima beans
1/2 cup frozen peas
Directions
Sauté onion, pepper, and garlic in olive oil
until just wilted. Add artichoke hearts and sauté for two minutes.
Add spinach, water, and broth and bring to a boil. Add rice, salt, paprika,
and saffron. Stir. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer 15 minutes. Stir in lima
beans and peas, then cover and simmer another 10 minutes. Serve hot. Serves
4. (You may vary the vegetables to suit your taste, but the saffron is a
must for its distinctive flavor.)
— Courtesy of Food
Fantasies (1512 W. Wabash Ave., 217-793-9037)
Saffron tips
Store saffron in a
cool, dark place. You may wrap it in foil and place it in a tin or jar
with a tight lid. Properly stored, saffron will last several years. As it
ages, however, its flavor will diminish.
Saffron does not
“boil away” when added at the beginning of the cooking process.
The threads continue to release flavor and aroma for 12 hours or more.
Wooden utensils
tend to absorb saffron easily, so avoid using them.
This article appears in Mar 31 – Apr 6, 2005.
