Posted inFood & Drink

Ice cream art and science

I tasted Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream just minutes after being introduced to my first grandson. Stepping through the doorway, I was totally focused on him. But soon other priorities reared their heads. I’d driven more than 16 hours, mostly through rain, sleet and snow. I needed a bathroom and some water.  When I emerged from […]

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In praise of braise

The heat is finally retreating. Even when daytime temperatures are warm, the nights are deliciously cool. Best of all, the high humidity has fled. When days and nights turn crisp, my culinary thoughts move away from salads and grilling towards stews and braised dishes. What’s the difference between the two terms? Not much. In fact, […]

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It’s alive!

A couple months ago, I lost something valuable. The value wasn’t monetary; it was precious because I’d created it and kept it alive for 15 years. Truthfully, I’d come to take it for granted, knowing that even if I neglected it for months, it would still be there whenever I needed it. Only when I […]

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Caramelized-onion marmalade

Nothing is more dramatically transformed by browning than onions. Sharply pungent raw onions become richly mellow, savory and sweet. This caramelized-onion marmalade has many uses: as a sandwich spread, or on a grilled cheese sandwich. I often use it as a base for salad dressing (mix 1 tablespoon of olive oil with every quarter-cup of […]

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Brown is beautiful

One of the main reasons restaurant food tastes so much better in America than home cooking,” renowned chef Mario Batali often said on his Food Network show, “Molto Mario,” “is that chefs aren’t afraid to really brown things.” It’s a mantra he repeated on any show in which he browned anything. Batali knows what he’s […]

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Pear and raspberry tarts

1 recipe almond tart dough, recipe follows 1 beaten egg 6 T. seedless red raspberry jam 3 firm but ripe pears, preferably a more rounded variety, such as Bartletts or Red pears Turbinado sugar, sometimes called coarse sugar or sugar in the raw, for sprinkling 1 pint fresh red raspberries Crme friche or whipped cream […]

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