I’m just back from what has become an annual trip to southwestern Louisiana, a.k.a. Acadiana or Cajun Country. This time, we didn’t stay at Lafayette’s Blue Moon Saloon, a music venue cum guesthouse. Instead, we were in Eunice, a small town 30 minutes away, at Black Pot Camp, a three-day event with Cajun music and […]
Food & Drink
Artichokes stuffed with shrimp and/or crabmeat
Seafood-stuffed artichokes are a New Orleans classic that can be found in restaurants ranging from humble to elegant. It’s a beautiful dish, the stuffed artichoke leaves splaying out like some exotic flower. But these artichokes aren’t just for looks. They’re absolutely delicious and, hands down, my favorite artichoke preparation. 4 large artichokes 1 lemon, halved […]
Nourishing the nation, one tray at a time
It’s in all 50 states. In thousands of school districts. It’s growing by leaps and bounds. And now it’s been endorsed and getting support from the federal government and some state and local governments. Schoolchildren are eating fresh food from local farms for school lunches and breakfasts. Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsack explained: “The vision […]
Roasted pumpkin 5-spice ice cream
Jeni Britton Bauer uses a 1 1/2 qt. Cuisinart ice cream maker, with an electric base and frozen canister for her recipes. Other models are available; all range from around $40 – $60. Using Chinese 5-spice powder gives this ice cream an Asian twist and touch of heat. Traditionally it includes Szechwan peppercorns, although in […]
Ice cream art and science
I tasted Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream just minutes after being introduced to my first grandson. Stepping through the doorway, I was totally focused on him. But soon other priorities reared their heads. I’d driven more than 16 hours, mostly through rain, sleet and snow. I needed a bathroom and some water. When I emerged from […]
Orange scented braised lamb shanks
McGee’s guidelines for succulent braises and stews: A moist, tender braise or stew results from the cook’s cumulative attention to several details of procedure. The most important rule: never let the meat interior get anywhere near the boil. Keep the meat as intact as possible to minimize cut surfaces through which fluids can escape. If […]
In praise of braise
The heat is finally retreating. Even when daytime temperatures are warm, the nights are deliciously cool. Best of all, the high humidity has fled. When days and nights turn crisp, my culinary thoughts move away from salads and grilling towards stews and braised dishes. What’s the difference between the two terms? Not much. In fact, […]
It’s alive!
A couple months ago, I lost something valuable. The value wasn’t monetary; it was precious because I’d created it and kept it alive for 15 years. Truthfully, I’d come to take it for granted, knowing that even if I neglected it for months, it would still be there whenever I needed it. Only when I […]
Caramelized-onion marmalade
Nothing is more dramatically transformed by browning than onions. Sharply pungent raw onions become richly mellow, savory and sweet. This caramelized-onion marmalade has many uses: as a sandwich spread, or on a grilled cheese sandwich. I often use it as a base for salad dressing (mix 1 tablespoon of olive oil with every quarter-cup of […]
Brown is beautiful
One of the main reasons restaurant food tastes so much better in America than home cooking,” renowned chef Mario Batali often said on his Food Network show, “Molto Mario,” “is that chefs aren’t afraid to really brown things.” It’s a mantra he repeated on any show in which he browned anything. Batali knows what he’s […]
Sherry honey dressing
1 c. olive oil 5 T. sherry or red wine vinegar 4 T. yoghurt or sour cream 1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, or 1 tsp. regular salt 1/2 tsp dry mustard 1/4 c. honey Coarsely ground black pepper 1 1/2 – 2 T. minced shallot, preferred, or onion Whisk all the ingredients together. Let stand […]
Pear and raspberry tarts
1 recipe almond tart dough, recipe follows 1 beaten egg 6 T. seedless red raspberry jam 3 firm but ripe pears, preferably a more rounded variety, such as Bartletts or Red pears Turbinado sugar, sometimes called coarse sugar or sugar in the raw, for sprinkling 1 pint fresh red raspberries Crme friche or whipped cream […]
