They’re luscious, ripe, and ready. At their succulent best, their quintessential peak. Melons – specifically watermelons and cantaloupes. Every so often my grandfather used to grow watermelons and cantaloupes. But they were never more than just OK. Our black, loamy soil was much too rich. Papa knew that was why, but it aggravated him that […]
Food & Drink
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Grilled watermelon
A decade ago if anyone had asked me if it was possible to grill watermelon, I’d have laughed at such a ridiculous notion. That was before I first tasted grilled watermelon at Bacaro, a restaurant in Champaign whose chef, Thad Morrow, is a longtime friend. I ordered it out of curiosity and trust in Morrow’s […]
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Chilled melon tomato soup
I’ve been making this cold soup every summer for more than 25 years. Not only is it delicious, but it’s also incredibly easy and quick to make. There’s no cooking involved. Just cut up the ingredients, and purée in a blender or food processor. The original recipe came from the Elsah Landing Restaurant cookbook. In […]
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The trials and tribulations of judging barbeque
It’s a tough job, but somebody’s got to do it. Not long after I began writing this column in 2006, I realized that the job came with a few perks. There were invitations to food writers’ dinners in some of Chicago’s best restaurants. Cookbooks began arriving in my mailbox. Some weren’t that great but, hey, […]
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My barbeque sauce
Barbeque experts and aficionados agree: It’s all about the meat. Drenching barbequed meats in sauce either keeps you from appreciating the exquisite artistry and scientific knowledge that went into its preparation – or masks an inferior product. In fact, some eschew sauce altogether. That said, good barbeque sauces used judiciously can enhance without overwhelming. Here’s […]
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Cornell chicken
I first encountered Cornell Chicken in Steven Raichlen’s BBQ America cookbook. Intrigued with the recipe and its history, I made it. But my family’s consensus was that while it was good, it certainly wasn’t anything special. Recently, however, after watching an episode about Cornell Chicken on PBS’s “Cook’s Country,” I gave it another try. This […]
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The most famous State Fair food you’ve probably never heard of
Certain foods have become intrinsically linked with state fairs throughout most of the nation. Salt water taffy. Snow cones. Cotton candy. Lemonade shakeups. Recently there’s been an influx of increasingly bizarre items that are deep-fried or on a stick – or both. Many are outrageously over-the-top, the heights of their caloric content only equaled by […]
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Clay’s Popeye’s Barbeque turns 50
Barack Obama isn’t the only one who’s been celebrating a half-century birthday recently. Clay’s Popeye Barbeque’s 50th anniversary is this year. That’s a long time for any business to be in business, and especially noteworthy for a restaurant. Most have a much shorter lifespan. But Popeye’s has stood the test of time. Popeye’s Barbeque, which […]
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Ashley’s amazing biscuits
These biscuits are amazing because they’re so delicious and so incredibly easy. They’ve become known as Ashley’s biscuits in our house, but not because she devised the recipe. It comes from the cookbook Fanny at Chez Panisse, a Child’s Restaurant Adventures with 46 Recipes, written by the legendary Alice Waters. The recipes are simple yet […]
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Fresh peach cobbler
Peach cobbler is one of Mary Clay’s signature desserts. This is my version of that summertime classic. 2/3 – 1 c. sugar 1 T. cornstarch 1/2 tsp. cinnamon, optional 1 c. water Ashley’s amazing biscuit dough, using 2 T. sugar 3 heaping cups ripe peaches, peeled or not, cut into bite-sized pieces, including any juice […]
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The pleasures of paella
I’ve had Spain on my brain lately. Not because I’m planning a trip, although it’s high on my travel wish list. It’s because on Aug. 14 my husband, Peter, and I will host a house concert by a world-famous flamenco guitarist. We’d decided not to have any more house concerts until fall. But when the […]
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Paella
I’ve never actually made paella, although I’ve helped with prep. That’s because it’s Peter’s specialty, something he’s made for years for our family, for dinner parties, and when camping. He’s acquired several paella pans of various sizes. The latest measures 26 inches across, purchased specially for the upcoming concert. This recipe is adapted from one […]
