Cold weather is just around the corner, and I’ll miss being able to cook outside. My favorite way to cook most foods is open-air grilling over wood or charcoal. Elizabeth Karmel agrees: “Grilling is the best way to cook, bar none. There is no other cooking technique that gives you this much flavor for your […]
Peter Glatz
After the passing of his wife, Julianne (former Illinois Times food columnist), Peter Glatz decided to retire from a 40-year career as a dentist to reinvent himself as a chef at the age of 66. In his short culinary career, he has worked at Chicago’s Michelin-starred Elizabeth Restaurant, Oklahoma City’s Nonesuch (Bon Appetit’s “America’s Best New Restaurant- 2018), Savannah’s The Grey, and Spoon and Stable in Minneapolis.
Oktoberfest in September
Though it’s only the middle of September, Oktoberfest officially begins this weekend. Over six million people will be attending Munich’s annual beer bash which goes on for 18 days. Oktoberfest has spread across the globe, with major celebrations taking place in such diverse places as Brazil, Australia, China, Argentina, Japan, South Africa and Hong Kong, […]
Giardiniera means “from the garden”
Summer’s end is just around the bend. My tomatoes and cucumbers are starting to get scarce, but the capsicum plants I’ve been faithfully tending are heavy with peppers and ablaze with color. It’s time to preserve some of this bounty for enjoyment over the winter months. Homemade giardiniera is a delicious way to preserve the […]
Cold soups
I have fond memories of dining at the old Baur’s Restaurant just south of the Statehouse back in the early 80s. Surrounded by legislators, lobbyists and journalists, Baur’s was our special occasion restaurant in our early years in Springfield. I even took our young daughter there for a birthday date and ordered the chateaubriand for […]
Salsa verde, chimichurri, chermoula, zhoug
One of my daily tasks at my first restaurant job was to make a “green sauce” to accompany our bison or quail dish. I never had a specific recipe to work from, just a general formula. Since our restaurant was a “farm-to-table” concept, I made my green sauce with whatever seasonal herbs our farmers brought […]
Good old yogurt
Look what they done to my song ma Look what they done to my song Well it’s the only thing That I could do half right And it’s turning out all wrong ma Look what they done to my song The words to this song by the singer-songwriter Melanie popped into my head as I […]
Hiyashi Chuka, a Japanese summertime dish
Although Japan adopted the Gregorian calendar in 1873, the old Japanese 24-season lunisolar calendar is still used to celebrate birthdays and cultural events. July 7 is Shsho or “small heat day” when the “warm winds blow, and young hawks learn to fly.” In modern times, July 7 is also known as Hiyashi Chuka Day. Hiyashi […]
Food preservation in the 1850s
Imagine what life was like around here in the 50s. I’m not talking about the 1950s when I was born. I’m talking about a hundred years before that, in the 1850s. Back then, all of Springfield’s public water came from a single pump on the southwest corner of the town square. That’s where you got […]
Butcher’s cuts make better steaks
When big box stores started putting local mom-and-pop shops out of business, our communities lost many experts and artisans. As local hardware stores, grocers and bakeries closed, we no longer had access to their knowledge and information. In the last decade, there has been a resurgence of locally owned artisanal businesses, including, thankfully, butcher shops. […]
My last meal
When I hang out with other chefs, as a conversation starter, I’ll often ask them what’s their favorite thing to eat, or what they’d choose for their last meal. One would expect the responses to be something complex, and, well… cheffy. Surprisingly, often the answers trend toward simple dishes. My current boss, Chef Sean Brock, […]
Hold the anchovies
My wife is not a picky eater. She starts out her mornings with a forkful of my homemade kimchi, straight out of the jar, followed by a glass of my home-brewed lemon-ginger kombucha. She’ll eat roasted bone marrow, raw oysters, grilled octopus, and beef tongue tacos. At Enoteca Maria in Staten Island, she even shared […]
Homemade ricotta is whey better!
I just got back from a lovely visit to New York, spending Easter with my daughter Anne’s family in their Brooklyn apartment. Admittedly, New York City is a bit of a culture shock to this old Midwesterner. There’s no place to park a car, the grandkids can’t just run outside and ride their bikes, and […]
