I’m currently reading Daniel Boulud’s Letters To A Young Chef, a manual written to help neophyte chefs understand what it takes to succeed in this tough profession. Daniel Boulud is one of the world’s most celebrated chefs and restaurateurs. The book was recommended to me by Boulud’s protégé, Gavin Kaysen, who is currently my boss. […]
Peter Glatz
After the passing of his wife, Julianne (former Illinois Times food columnist), Peter Glatz decided to retire from a 40-year career as a dentist to reinvent himself as a chef at the age of 66. In his short culinary career, he has worked at Chicago’s Michelin-starred Elizabeth Restaurant, Oklahoma City’s Nonesuch (Bon Appetit’s “America’s Best New Restaurant- 2018), Savannah’s The Grey, and Spoon and Stable in Minneapolis.
Every dish tells a story
During the Vietnam War, the CIA ran a clandestine sideshow in Laos. Known as the Secret War, it was the largest CIA operation in history. The CIA built an air base in the mountains of Laos from which it could launch military attacks. This base was so secret that not even Congress was aware of […]
Grilln’ veggies
My earliest grilling memory dates back to Brat Day, an annual summer tradition in the neighborhood where I grew up. Once a year my dad and I would drive to Sheboygan, nearly 150 miles away, to bring back coolers full of Sheboygan bratwurst for the neighborhood. This was back in the 60s when regional specialty […]
Cold salads for hot days
It’s been fiercely hot here the last few days, and when the sun bears down on the metal roof of the school bus that we call home, the temperature inside often tops 100 degrees. On days like these, I try to minimize putting any more heat into the bus while making dinner. These cold Asian-inspired […]
Demystifying lemongrass
I’ve always dreamed of opening up my own restaurant. The problem is, I’ve never liked running a business. I loved being a dentist, but I hated being a business owner. In my second career as a chef, I’ve loved the restaurant work, but I acknowledge that I’d suck at being a restaurant owner. The kind […]
Fermentation hotline
My last two columns on home fermentation triggered a surprising number of email questions from readers. In today’s column, I’ll address the three most commonly asked questions and pass on a couple new recipes. How can I tell if it’s safe to eat? Fermentation is one of the oldest methods of food preservation. It’s very […]
Getting started with home fermenting
Lacto-fermentation is an age-old process where beneficial “friendly” bacteria, known as lactic acid bacteria (LAB for short), transform vegetables into more nutritious and complex flavored foods with an extended shelf life. These microorganisms break down complex molecules into simpler, more digestible substances, increasing the bioavailability of vitamins, minerals and enzymes. Food that has been fermented […]
Why eat fermented foods?
The COVID-19 has been a major wake-up call. It’s made us realize how vulnerable we are. The Spanish Flu pandemic was a hundred years ago. In all the years hence, the advances in modern medicine and pharmacology haven’t been able to prevent over 3 million COVID deaths worldwide. This pandemic should be motivating us to […]
Missionaries of masa
A while ago I was cleaning out my pantry, and I found an unopened package of tortillas that I had purchased last year, at the beginning of the pandemic. My forgotten tortillas looked as good now as they did when I first bought them. This freaked me out. A food that never goes bad is […]
Might be the best cheesecake I’ve ever had
In 2013, three chefs from Chicago’s acclaimed Alinea Group went on an R&D trip to Spain in pursuit of inspiration for upcoming menus. In San Sebastian, the culinary capital of Spain’s Basque region, their tour guides were the head chefs of restaurants Mugaritz and Arzak. The five members of this entourage were all superstars of […]
Country captain chicken
My favorite scene from Christopher Guest’s 1997 mockumentary Waiting for Guffman, is Eugene Levy talking to friends over dinner at an old-school Chinese restaurant in rural Missouri. “We have friends Barbara and Bruce who went to China. They went to Peking, where they make the ducks, and what they say is that the food over […]
Ugly delicious celeriac
If you’ve not yet met celeriac, allow me to introduce you. Celeriac, also known as celery root, is the ugly duckling of the produce aisle. It is a bulbous, knobby root with a rough, brown, gnarled exterior. Unlike traditional celery, which is bred for the stalks, celeriac is bred for its roots. The stalks of […]
