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Leekapalooza

I’m currently reading Daniel Boulud’s Letters To A Young Chef, a manual written to help neophyte chefs understand what it takes to succeed in this tough profession. Daniel Boulud is one of the world’s most celebrated chefs and restaurateurs. The book was recommended to me by Boulud’s protégé, Gavin Kaysen, who is currently my boss. […]

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Every dish tells a story

During the Vietnam War, the CIA ran a clandestine sideshow in Laos. Known as the Secret War, it was the largest CIA operation in history. The CIA built an air base in the mountains of Laos from which it could launch military attacks. This base was so secret that not even Congress was aware of […]

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Grilln’ veggies

My earliest grilling memory dates back to Brat Day, an annual summer tradition in the neighborhood where I grew up. Once a year my dad and I would drive to Sheboygan, nearly 150 miles away, to bring back coolers full of Sheboygan bratwurst for the neighborhood. This was back in the 60s when regional specialty […]

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Cold salads for hot days

It’s been fiercely hot here the last few days, and when the sun bears down on the metal roof of the school bus that we call home, the temperature inside often tops 100 degrees. On days like these, I try to minimize putting any more heat into the bus while making dinner. These cold Asian-inspired […]

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Demystifying lemongrass

I’ve always dreamed of opening up my own restaurant. The problem is, I’ve never liked running a business. I loved being a dentist, but I hated being a business owner. In my second career as a chef, I’ve loved the restaurant work, but I acknowledge that I’d suck at being a restaurant owner. The kind […]

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Fermentation hotline

My last two columns on home fermentation triggered a surprising number of email questions from readers. In today’s column, I’ll address the three most commonly asked questions and pass on a couple new recipes. How can I tell if it’s safe to eat? Fermentation is one of the oldest methods of food preservation. It’s very […]

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Getting started with home fermenting

Lacto-fermentation is an age-old process where beneficial “friendly” bacteria, known as lactic acid bacteria (LAB for short), transform vegetables into more nutritious and complex flavored foods with an extended shelf life. These microorganisms break down complex molecules into simpler, more digestible substances, increasing the bioavailability of vitamins, minerals and enzymes. Food that has been fermented […]

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Why eat fermented foods?

The COVID-19 has been a major wake-up call. It’s made us realize how vulnerable we are. The Spanish Flu pandemic was a hundred years ago. In all the years hence, the advances in modern medicine and pharmacology haven’t been able to prevent over 3 million COVID deaths worldwide. This pandemic should be motivating us to […]

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Missionaries of masa

A while ago I was cleaning out my pantry, and I found an unopened package of tortillas that I had purchased last year, at the beginning of the pandemic. My forgotten tortillas looked as good now as they did when I first bought them. This freaked me out. A food that never goes bad is […]

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Country captain chicken

My favorite scene from Christopher Guest’s 1997 mockumentary Waiting for Guffman, is Eugene Levy talking to friends over dinner at an old-school Chinese restaurant in rural Missouri. “We have friends Barbara and Bruce who went to China. They went to Peking, where they make the ducks, and what they say is that the food over […]

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Ugly delicious celeriac

If you’ve not yet met celeriac, allow me to introduce you. Celeriac, also known as celery root, is the ugly duckling of the produce aisle. It is a bulbous, knobby root with a rough, brown, gnarled exterior. Unlike traditional celery, which is bred for the stalks, celeriac is bred for its roots. The stalks of […]

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