One of the most rewarding aspects of travel is discovering local culinary traditions – those storied techniques and heritage dishes that I would love to weave into my own kitchen repertoire. Every trip is a research and development project. This past autumn, a winning bid at a school fundraiser bought us a week in a rustic farmhouse in Gascony, a pastoral agricultural region in southwest France. We arrived with little prior knowledge of the area, but we discovered we were in the epicenter of duck and goose farming. Gascony is world famous for its production of foie gras, and during our stay, these prized fatty livers were just beginning to appear in local village markets.
I know … foie gras conjures up controversial imagery of the force-feeding practice called gavage.
In Gascony, early autumn marks a two-week period where farmers feed their ducks and geese a corn mixture multiple times daily. This practice of force-feeding, though controversial and often viewed as cruel, is a foundational element of the region’s culinary traditions, producing the signature oversized, fatty livers. During my own visit to a local duck farm, the birds flocked toward me with what seemed like enthusiasm – perhaps in anticipation that I’d gavage them with another round of corn.
The Gascon farmer explained that gavage essentially replicates a natural biological phenomenon. As winter approaches, migratory birds start gorging on grains, grasses, insects and fish to build up fat reserves necessary for their arduous travels. They can double their body weight in a mere 15 days. This rapid accumulation of fat provides necessary insulation against high-altitude cold.
In the era before refrigeration, the high demand for foie gras’ fatty livers raised a practical dilemma: how to utilize the remainder of the bird. Confit emerged as the solution for preservation. This technique involves salting the meat overnight and cooking it slowly for many hours, which allows it to be safely stored while submerged in its own rendered fat. Prior to the development of vacuum sealing, duck and goose parts were kept in jars or crockery beneath a protective, airtight seal of fat – frequently a blend of duck or goose and pork fats – which ensured the meat remained shelf-stable in cool cellars through the winter and spring. While originally a strategy for long-term storage, the method is now appreciated for the superior texture and depth of flavor it produces, resulting in meat that is exceptionally rich and tender. Though any part of the bird can be prepared this way, I find duck legs to be the ideal choice for confit.
Upon my return to the U.S., I was eager to recreate the dishes I enjoyed in Gascony, so I ordered Moulard duck legs and duck fat from D’Artagnan, a high-end specialty food purveyor that my previous restaurants utilized. I dry-brined them overnight, and then slow-cooked them in duck fat with fresh thyme sprigs and garlic. After spending the winter buried in duck fat in the back of my fridge, I decided to give them a try. I gently warmed the fat so I could remove two of the legs. I crisped the skin in a hot skillet, then finished warming the meat in the oven. The resulting meat was meltingly soft and tender, and the skin was wonderfully crispy. It was so damn good!
While Moulard ducks are celebrated for their substantial legs and deep, red meat, sourcing them from D’Artagnan comes at a premium. Though I highly recommend attempting your own duck confit for special occasions if your budget allows, the same method works beautifully with more affordable, accessible chicken parts as well. Using olive oil as a substitute for duck fat also yields excellent results.
For a chicken-based alternative, salt the thighs or leg quarters overnight, then place them in an ovenproof dish with several cloves of garlic and sprigs of fresh thyme. Fully submerge the meat in olive oil and slow-roast at 200 degrees for roughly six hours. The process is complete once the oil clarifies and the chicken pieces sink to the bottom of the pan.
Chicken confit
Slow-cooking chicken in olive oil yields an incredibly succulent and tender result. These pieces can be stored in the refrigerator for a few months as long as they remain completely submerged in the oil. To serve, a quick sear is all that is needed to produce perfectly crispy skin. Serve with potatoes cooked in the same oil.
Ingredients:
4 chicken leg quarters or bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs.
Kosher salt
4 cups olive oil (you don’t need to use expensive extra-virgin), or more as needed
Fresh thyme sprigs
1 head of garlic, cut in half
Preparation:
Generously salt the chicken and refrigerate it uncovered for 24 hours.
Heat the oven to 200 degrees. Put the chicken in an ovenproof pan large enough to fit it comfortably and deep enough to completely cover it with oil. Add the thyme sprigs and garlic.
Place the pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat and cook only until tiny bubbles form.
Transfer the pan to the oven, uncovered. The oil should barely form bubbles. Cook for six to eight hours. When done, the meat should be easily pierced with a thin-bladed knife.
To serve now, remove the chicken pieces and sear skin-side down in a skillet over medium-high heat for five to 10 minutes.
To serve later, cool the chicken and store it in the refrigerator, fully submerged in the olive oil, for up to three months. You could freeze chicken confit for longer storage, but the meat’s texture will suffer, as small ice crystals will form around it.
After you’ve eaten the chicken, strain the oil, store it in the refrigerator for a month or so, and use it for other recipes.
After retiring from a 40-year career in dentistry at age 66, Dr. Peter Glatz embraced his lifelong dream of becoming a professional chef. His transition from the exacting world of dentistry to the inventive world of culinary arts is a testament to the possibility of self-reinvention at any age.
This article appears in April 2-8, 2026.
