My late wife, Julianne, and I were undergraduates at the University of Illinois in Champaign when we married. During our first year of marriage, while living in a mobile home on the outskirts of Champaign, we engaged in a fundraising pie-making marathon. This event supported the U of I Concert Choir’s concert tour of Puerto Rico.
Over the course of one weekend, Julianne baked more than 50 double-crust apple pies for the bake sale. My responsibilities included transporting the pies, a few at a time, to a meat locker 20 minutes away, where they were frozen and stored until the bake sale. I also cleaned up after her, a role that continued throughout our marriage.
For 43 years, I watched Julianne, an exceptional pie maker, create consistently crisp and flaky crusts. She was adamant about her ingredients, using only rendered leaf lard – never butter, which she considered sacrilege. Despite numerous chances to learn her technique, I remained intimidated and never did, always finding the idea of making pie dough from scratch daunting.
Having spent decades avoiding it, I finally mastered the art of making a decent pie crust in my 70s. Now, I proudly hold the title of designated pie maker at Champaign’s Caprae Restaurant. The good news is you can conquer this culinary challenge, too, with a little knowledge, practice and some essential tips.
Pie dough, at its core, is a simple blend of flour, fat, water and salt. The secret lies in their interaction. Flour provides the structure, with all-purpose flour being ideal due to its balanced protein content. For flakiness, cold lard or butter (or a combination of both) is key. As the dough bakes, the melting fat releases steam, separating the flour layers and creating that desired flaky texture. Ice-cold water binds the ingredients, but too much can lead to a tough crust due to overdeveloped gluten. Finally, a touch of salt enhances the flavor.
If you follow a few rules, your pie dough phobia can be conquered.
Keep all ingredients cold. The fat, water and even your hands should be as cold as possible. Chilling your flour and mixing bowl beforehand can also help.
Work quickly. The longer the dough sits out, the warmer it gets, making it stickier and more difficult to handle.
Cut the cold butter or lard into small pieces or put it in the freezer and grate it through the large holes of a box grater. When mixing, you want pieces of fat ranging from pea-sized to small lentil-sized. These pockets of fat are what create the steam and flakiness.
To achieve a tender, flaky crust, avoid overworking the dough. Overworking develops the gluten, leading to a tough and chewy texture. Instead, mix the dough gently – just until the ingredients are combined.
Chilling the dough before rolling helps the fat firm up, preventing it from melting too quickly and making it easier to handle. Chill again after rolling and before baking.
When rolling, use even pressure and avoid excessive re-rolling of scraps. Instead of trying to roll in all directions, roll in one direction, lift and rotate the dough a quarter turn, and repeat. This helps maintain a round shape and prevents sticking.
Flour your surface judiciously. A light dusting of flour on your work surface and rolling pin prevents sticking. Too much flour will make the dough dry and tough. Dust off any excess flour before baking.
To simplify working with pie dough, especially sticky varieties, try rolling it between two sheets of parchment paper. This method helps reduce the amount of extra flour needed and makes transferring the crust much easier. Another option is to purchase an OXO Silicone Dough Rolling Bag for around $20.
Ensure there are no cracks or holes in the bottom crust before adding the filling. Don’t be afraid to patch the pastry with extra dough and a bit of cold water or beaten egg. Seal the bottom crust with beaten egg whenever possible.
Ensure your rolled-out crust is well-chilled before baking. This helps the fat solidify and the gluten relax, preventing excessive shrinkage.
For single-crust pies, use a fork to prick holes (or “dock”) in the bottom and sides of the dough before baking. This allows steam to escape, preventing bubbles and ensuring an even bake.
Use pans that conduct heat well. Metal works better than glass or ceramic.
For pies with wet fillings, blind baking (pre-baking) the crust helps prevent a soggy bottom and can also help with shrinkage. You can use pie weights or dried beans to keep the crust from bubbling up.
To make your fillings less wet, such as an apple pie filling, dehydrate your filling in a low oven or dehydrator. This concentrates the flavor and prevents a soggy bottom.
Pour the fillings in just before the final baking.
My final bits of advice: start simply with a basic all-butter pie dough recipe, like Sam Sifton’s from the New York Times website. Master this before experimenting with different fats or flours. Ensure all ingredients, especially those that should be cold, are measured and ready.
Making pie dough improves with practice, so don’t be discouraged by initial, less-than-stellar attempts. Each pie is a learning experience. Learn to feel the dough: it should be pliable but not sticky. If too dry, add ice water a teaspoon at a time. If the mixture is too wet, add a sprinkle of flour.
Making homemade pie dough is a gratifying culinary experience. By understanding the principles and tackling common fears with practical solutions, you’ll soon be crafting beautiful, flaky and delicious pies that will impress everyone (especially yourself!). So, grab your butter, flour and a sense of adventure – your perfect pie crust awaits.
After a 40-year career as a dentist, Peter Glatz has embarked on a fulfilling second career, exchanging his lab coat and scalpel for a chef’s coat and knife.
This article appears in October 16-22, 2025.
