The horseshoe is to Springfield what a cheesesteak is to Philadelphia, Italian beef is to Chicago, hot chicken is to Nashville and a muffuletta is to New Orleans – regional dishes that have achieved iconic status. In my travels, whenever I mention that I’m from Springfield, people will either remark: “Home of the Simpsons” (not true) or “Birthplace of the horseshoe” (absolutely true). According to Wikipedia: “The horseshoe is an open-faced sandwich originating in Springfield, Illinois, United States. It consists of thick-sliced toasted bread (often Texas toast), a hamburger patty or other choice of meat, French fries, and cheese sauce.”
As with many iconic regional dishes, numerous origin stories exist. According to one source on the internet: “Horseshoes are a Springfield, Illinois original, first created by the chef at The Red Coach for his luncheon clientèle. The story goes that he had a lot of extra cheese sauce left over one day and threw it over the “chopped steak” and gravy sandwiches the patrons always ordered. He added some shoestring potatoes on top, and a sensation was born!” Another story goes: “It was developed for travelers to eat during long horse and carriage rides. Horseshoe sandwiches are notoriously messy, so it’s unclear why anyone ever thought that would be a good idea on a bumpy carriage ride.” Yet another source claims the Leland Hotel’s 17-year-old dishwasher invented it.
Because you shouldn’t believe everything you see online, I’ll go with the story posted in my most trusted print news source, the Illinois Times: “The idea for the Horseshoe Sandwich came from Elizabeth Schweska, Chef Joe Schweska’s wife. Chef Schweska came home one day and remarked to his wife that he needed a new lunch item for the Leland Hotel’s restaurant menu. She had seen a recipe using a Welsh Rarebit Sauce and suggested the possibility of an open-faced sandwich using this sauce. Joe Schweska liked the idea and developed his own sauce and … sandwich creation, The Horseshoe.”
But what exactly is a Welsh rarebit?
A Welsh rarebit (AKA Welsh rabbit) is an open-faced sandwich with a thick, creamy cheese sauce made from grated cheddar blended with mustard, beer and a bit of cayenne or Worcestershire that’s served bubbly, hot and lightly browned under the broiler over toast. It is a popular lunch, teatime snack or supper in the British Isles. It is sometimes served after a meal as a cheese course. The Welsh rarebit cheese sauce resembles the classic French Mornay sauce, a béchamel (white sauce made with butter, flour, and milk) made with melted Gruyère instead of cheddar.
Despite its name, Welsh rarebit is probably not Welsh in origin. In the 1700s Britain, “Welsh” was a term used as an ethnic slur. The first recorded recipe appears in an English cookbook from the 1700s. The original name was Welsh rabbit, though it contained no rabbit. It is theorized that the Welsh were so poor back then that they referred to cheese as “their rabbit” because they couldn’t afford meat very often. “Rarebit” is considered a corruption of the word “rabbit.”
Good toast starts with good bread – crusty bread like sourdough or hearty whole-grain country bread. A wonderfully tangy Welsh rarebit is made with a sharp melting cheese, such as Vermont cheddar, English Lancashire, Cheshire or Double Gloucester. It’s best to use freshly shredded cheese because pre-grated cheeses are coated in an anti-caking agent that prevents the cheese from melting smoothly. Welsh rarebit is good served with pickled vegetables or chutney. It is also a nice accompaniment for a bowl of tomato soup or a green salad with a tangy vinaigrette. Dark ales or full-bodied red wines are good beverage pairings, as is a glass of port if enjoying it after a meal.
Welsh rarebit
Makes 4-8 open-faced sandwiches
This recipe might make more cheese sauce than you need. The notes below suggest uses for the leftover sauce.
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons of unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon Coleman’s mustard powder (or substitute 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard)
½ teaspoon cayenne (use less if you prefer less spicy)
3/4 cup Guinness stout or Negra Modelo
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
16 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, grated
4 to 8 slices of crusty bread, about 1/2-inch thick
Preparation:
Make a roux: Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat and whisk in the flour. Cook, whisking constantly, until the raw flour smell is gone and the roux is golden brown, about two to three minutes.
Whisk in the mustard powder and cayenne pepper, followed by the beer and the Worcestershire sauce.
Reduce the heat to low and gradually add the cheese, stirring constantly, until it melts and the sauce is smooth – about four to five minutes.
Remove from the heat and allow the cheese sauce to cool until slightly warm.
Set the oven to broil. Place the bread slices in a preheated skillet and toast until lightly browned on both sides.
Remove the skillet from the oven and spread the cheese mixture generously over the toast. Return the skillet to the oven and broil until the cheese is bubbling and golden brown.
Serve immediately.
Notes:
The cheese mixture can be kept in the refrigerator for up to five days or frozen in an airtight container and thawed before reheating.
Leftover cheese sauce can be used to top baked potatoes, grilled vegetables like cauliflower or broccoli, or to make a tangy mac and cheese with a hint of beer and mustard.
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