March weather is reliably unpredictable. A day of blissful sunshine can turn cold and icy overnight, quashing dreams of cheerful blooms and lazy afternoons sprawled out on a picnic blanket. No matter what the weather’s mood, hopeful gardeners can bring a bit of spring into their homes by forcing certain spring flowering shrubs and trees to bloom early.
Late winter and early spring are an ideal time to prune many trees and shrubs, especially those that bloom in spring and set next year’s flower buds in the coming summer. While it’s often recommended to prune shrubs that bloom on old wood (the previous year’s growth) after they’ve finished blooming in order to fully enjoy their splendor, there’s no harm in pruning them before they’ve bloomed as long as they’ve experienced at least six weeks of winter dormancy in consistently cold temperatures.
Ideal candidates for forcing into early bloom include flowering quince, viburnums, pussywillows, magnolias, forsythia, redbud and dogwoods, as well as branches from fruit trees such as apple, peach, plum and cherry. Cut branches on a day when the temperatures are above freezing, because the buds and branches will be less brittle and will better withstand the transition from the frigid outdoors to a temperate indoor climate. Look for branches that are heavily laden with flower buds, which are plumper and rounder than the more pointy shaped leaf buds. If you’re unsure, cut into the bud with a sharp knife – the inside of flower buds will reveal tiny flower parts.
Cut sections of branches that are less than ½-inch in diameter and are anywhere from 10 to 18 inches long; however, be mindful to maintain the plant’s shape and avoid spoiling its forthcoming floral display. Use sharp, clean pruning shears or loppers to cut the branch at a 45-degree angle Select branches from dense areas in the shrub, removing them evenly to maintain its shape. Avoid cutting lots of branches from one tight area as it can spoil the plant’s display when it eventually blooms.
Once back inside, place the branches in a bucket of cool water. Holding the stem underwater, make a fresh cut one inch from the bottom to prevent air from coming up into the stem from the cut end and preventing water uptake. Strip any buds or leaves off of the stem that will be below the water line. When arranging the branches, try to keep the height of the branches in proportion to the height of the container, no more than one and a half times the height of the vase.
If desired, you can fill the vase with homemade flower preservative for longer-lasting blooms. To make flower preservative, combine one quart of water with one teaspoon of sugar, one teaspoon of household bleach and two teaspoons of lemon or lime juice. Place the vase in a cool, 60-to-70-degree location away from direct sunlight and change out the water every three to four days to prevent bacterial buildup.
Depending on the type of flower that you’re encouraging to bloom and its degree of growth when cut, it can take anywhere from one to five weeks for the flowers to begin to open. The closer they are cut to their natural blooming time, the sooner they will bloom indoors.
After flowering, some types of branches, especially pussywillows, may develop roots, at which point they can be potted up and eventually transplanted outside.
Ashley Meyer is a freelance writer in Springfield who is ready for spring.
This article appears in March 19-25, 2026.
