The sweet, raisin-studded soda bread that many of us Americans know and love is about as authentically Irish as corned beef and cabbage, which is to say, not really authentic at all. Real Irish soda bread, is generally simple and wholesome, a true hearth bread as opposed to an American-style soda bread which is closer to a glorified muffin stuffed with sugar, butter, eggs and fruit. The first loaves were created in the late 1800s when baking soda began making its debut in kitchens throughout the U.S. and Europe. Home bakers were thrilled to discover that the combination of alkaline baking soda and acidic buttermilk resulted in a volatile reaction that acted as a leavener in baked goods, providing a quick, convenient and reliable alternative to yeast. The combination of baking soda and buttermilk that gave rise to biscuits and cornbread in the U.S. found its way into scones and soda bread in the United Kingdom.
Today, soda bread is enjoyed around the world and, while it’s become a popular St. Patrick’s Day treat in the U.S., in Ireland it’s eaten year-round. Best enjoyed fresh from the oven and slathered with salted butter, it’s a fine partner for Guinness stew or boiled ham but is also at home on the breakfast table with fruit preserves or served with artisanal cheeses for a light midday meal. Thanks to its humble provenance, the ingredient list is simple and the preparation is uncomplicated, resulting in a true quick bread that’s ready to eat in less than an hour. A generous proportion of buttermilk is combined with just enough flour to create a soft dough, along with plenty of baking soda to give it a good rise and the characteristic, slightly alkaline flavor reminiscent of freshly baked pretzels.
Like most quick breads, the dough for soda bread doesn’t require much kneading and instead moves effortlessly from the mixing bowl to the baking sheet. Because the dough contains so much moisture, the way the dough is mixed has a huge impact on the final texture. Minimal mixing will result in a rustic loaf with a crunchy, craggy crust, while more vigorous stirring and kneading of the dough will activate the gluten in the flour, resulting in a slightly higher rise with a more delicate crumb. The ideal loaf falls somewhere in the middle and can be tailored to the taste of each individual baker.
Once the dough has come together and it’s on the baking sheet, it’s traditionally marked with a cross, supposedly to “let the devil out” as it bakes. Practically, scoring the dough with a deep cut creates a vent that lets steam escape and allows the dough to expand and bake evenly. Once out of the oven, it’s critical to let the bread rest for 30 minutes before cutting to let it finish baking for the crumb to set. Cutting it too soon after it comes out of the oven will yield a gummy, crumbly mess. Soda bread is best the day it’s made. However, it will keep for a day or two in an airtight container. Any leftovers can be easily transformed into scrumptious croutons, breadcrumbs or the base for both sweet and savory bread puddings.
Irish soda bread
Ingredients:
2 ½ cups all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
½ teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon baking soda
1 ½ cups buttermilk
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment or coat it lightly with butter. Sift together the flours, salt and baking soda in a large bowl and make a well in the center and stir in the buttermilk to create a soft dough. Knead the dough very lightly for a few seconds to create a round and transfer it to the prepared baking sheet. Use a wooden spoon handle or knife to make a deep cross in the center of the dough almost all the way down to the baking sheet.
Bake for 15 minutes at 425 degrees then reduce the temperature to 400 degrees and bake an additional 30 minutes until the top is deep golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped. You can confirm that it’s baked through by checking the temperature with an instant read thermometer, which should read 200 degrees. Once out of the oven, wrap the bread in a tea towel and allow it to cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing. While this bread is best enjoyed the day it’s made, any leftovers make delicious toast.
Ashley Meyer is a chef and freelance writer based in Springfield.
