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Braised lamb shank on the mashed potato in the restaurant

Meltingly tender and deeply aromatic, a meal of slow-braised lamb shanks provides a generous serving of stick-to-your ribs comfort food on a snowy winter afternoon. A meaty cut from the lower part of the leg, the tough, hardworking muscle is laden with connective tissue that breaks down during long, slow cooking to yield a succulent and flavorful forkful of meaty goodness. After a quick sear on the stove, they settle in for a long session in the oven, enrobed by aromatics and a generous splash of whatever you have lying around. You’re then free to read a book or go play in the snow while the shanks bubble away in the oven, melting the tough rubbery cartilage into a generous, collagen-rich sauce. 

Pork and veal shanks are another beloved cut for a cold winter braise but can sometimes be harder to source (Humphrey’s Market in Springfield regularly carries all three in its freezer case). Lamb shanks are smaller and can be served whole as a generous single portion, whereas pork and veal shanks are generally much larger and have a milder flavor. They can be braised whole and served pulled off the bone, or they can be crosscut into thick two-inch sections for individual servings. While traditionally cooked in a low oven, shanks can also be made in a slow cooker set on low for six to eight hours. The sauce will not reduce as much in a slow cooker however, so you may want to reduce the braising liquid in a saucepan over the stovetop before serving.

Lamb shank preparations can be found across the globe, from a straightforward English style braise served with mashed potatoes and peas to heady Moroccan spiced tagine studded with dried fruits and nuts. Here we offer a master recipe along with a few internationally inspired variations. 


Braised lamb shanks master recipe 
Serves 4-6

Ingredients:
4 lamb shanks 
Salt and pepper 
1 tablespoon olive oil or bacon fat 
1 onion, diced 
2-4 cloves of garlic, minced 
1 bay leaf
2-3 cups stock, wine, beer or water
Herbs such as fresh or thyme and rosemary, delicious but optional

Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Generously sprinkle the shanks with salt and pepper. Heat a Dutch oven or oven-safe skillet over high heat and brown the shanks on all sides, working in batches if necessary. Remove the shanks to a plate and set aside. Reduce the heat and add the onions and garlic and sauté briefly until they are fragrant and begin to soften. Return the shanks to the pot along with the bay leaf and pour in your liquid of choice, cover and transfer to the oven. Bake for three to four hours, turning the shanks halfway until the meat is falling off the bone. Add water to the pan as needed if the braising liquid begins to dry out. You can choose to either pull the meat off the bone or serve the shanks whole, drizzled with the pan juices.

Variations: 

Alla Milanese 

Traditionally prepared with veal shanks, this classic preparation is also delicious made with either pork or lamb shanks. 

To the diced onions add ½ cup each diced carrots and celery. For the liquid use 1 ½ cup white wine and 1 ½ cup unsalted stock, along with 1-15 ounce can of peeled whole tomatoes. Serve the shanks drizzled with gremolata (a fresh herb relish made by combining 1-2 cloves minced garlic, the grated rind of one lemon, ⅓ cup minced parsley and a generous pinch of salt). Serve over saffron risotto.

Moroccan-style tagine

Generously rub the shanks with a paste made from 4-5 cloves minced garlic, 1 tablespoon grated ginger, 1 tablespoon paprika, 2 teaspoons cumin and 1 teaspoon salt. Let the shanks marinade for an hour at room temperature or cover and refrigerate overnight. Brown the lamb shanks over medium heat (rather than high) so as not to burn the spice paste. Add 1 tablespoon tomato paste to the softening onions along with a pinch of saffron (optional but very delicious), a cinnamon stick, and ½ cup pitted, chopped dates, (Pit them and chop them yourself, don’t use pre-chopped dates which taste like cardboard and are coated with added sugar and anti-caking agents.) Use water as the braising liquid. Serve the braised shanks garnished with golden raisins, pomegranate seeds, toasted almonds and cilantro alongside fluffy steamed couscous.

Adobo-style lamb shanks 

After browning the shanks, add one-two tablespoons canned chipotle in adobo (to taste) to the sautéed onions and garlic along with a tablespoon of dried oregano, two teaspoons cumin, ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves, one tablespoon of brown sugar, one tablespoon cider vinegar, a cinnamon stick and a bay leaf or two. Nestle the shanks in the spiced onions and use two cups of orange juice as the braising liquid. Nestle the shredded meat in warm corn tortillas, topped with pickled onion and chopped cilantro.  


Ashley Meyer is a chef and freelance writer based in Springfield.

Ashley Meyer has been cooking as long as she has been walking. The daughter of beloved former Illinois Times food columnist, Julianne Glatz, Ashley offers a fresh, inspired take on her mother’s culinary...

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