Apfelwurst (apple sausage)

My family’s preferred breakfast sausage was always Humphrey’s Market apfelwurst, made in-house. When they stopped making it almost a decade ago, I began experimenting in an attempt to recreate the original; the recipe below is the one that finally garnered my family’s approval. If you’re not inclined to make your own, the folks at Humphrey’s say they’re going to begin making apfelwurst again soon. The applesauce gives it just a hint of sweetness that, along with the spices, make it perfect for fall.

• 1 ½ lb. ground pork, chilled
• 1 c. applesauce, chilled
• 1 c. loosely packed minced scallions
• 1 ½ tsp. kosher or sea salt, or more or less to taste
• 1 tsp. freshly ground pepper or more or less to taste
• ½ tsp. ground cinnamon, or more or less to taste
• ¼ tsp. freshly ground nutmeg, or more or less to taste
• ¼ tsp. freshly ground allspice, or more or less to taste

Mix all ingredients gently but thoroughly. Fry a tablespoon or so of the sausage to check the seasonings and adjust to your taste. The sausage is best if the mixture is allowed to stand, refrigerated, overnight to let the flavors develop. Form the mixture into patties or “meatballs” and sauté until cooked through. The mixture may also be stuffed into casings to form links. Makes about 1¾ lbs.